That little round biscuit with a heart of red

I was raised with round holed Jammie Dodgers. I remember them quite clearly having round holes, rather than the current heart-shaped hole biscuit. Since this morning, the shape of the hole in Jammie Dodgers has become a matter of concern. There's 'talk' on the internet that only J.Ds with heart shaped holes are the authentic biscuit, and those with round holes are imposters. I appreciate that the current design is more appropriate in maintaining links with certain sectors of the health industry. Blood UK have a heart as their logo. And as I mentioned in the previous blog, I eat them when I go blood doning. JDs are always part of the Blood Donors biscuit box. Then there's the British Heart Foundation with an outline of a heart for their logo. I am assuming that the BHF have heart hole shaped JDs somewhere on the premises. So I can see the point. Heart/Red and all that. However there are generations of us who were brought up on round-holed Jammie Dodgers and I don't want to hear this late on that they weren't the real thing.

In any case how can it be so when Dr. Who uses round-holed J.D's. Want proof? Here it is. I don't know who took the photo, but thank you, it's a vital piece of evidence.  There were J.Ds with round holes. Come on peeps! Dr. Who could not possibly have convinced the Daleks that his Jammie Dodger was a self-destruct button, using a J.D. with a heart-shaped hole! Ever heard a Dalek snigger - that would have been the moment. I trust Dr. Who. Many's the time that J.Ds have got him out of a tight spot. In any case (by all accounts) they are his favourite snack.

If the question of authenticity wasn't enough, now there's a possibility that etymologically the name Jammie Dodger isn't British but French, coming from the French Wars of  Religion, which were fought from the middle to the late 1500's. Apparently losses of men from towns and villages were so heavy, that ceremonial biscuits were made to remember those who never returned, and carried with them the legend Jamais de Guerre - no more war.  

My day has just got worse. If this story is true, the 'biscuit' consisted of two large pieces of unleavened bread with - I don't believe it -  heart-shaped holes!  The two halves were pressed together and filled with fresh or preserved fruit. Eventually in the twentieth century the idea and name were reworked to become the Jammie Dodger that many of us know and love. Feel a cup of tea coming on. Sadly there isn't a single J.D. in the house.
Ah well. Life is still worth living.

'Blood is the fragile scarlet tree we carry within us'

The words of Sir Osbert Sitwell, one of the Sitwell siblings - Dame Edith and Sir Sacheverell Sitwell being the other two. All big creative thinkers and writers. Certainly this quote has travelled far in the name of blood doning. The American Red Cross Blood Drive have used it, as has the Blood Donor Society of Lahore, a local blood doning group near New York, it also heads up an article about How to Understand Your Blood Tests & Biochemistry. And then there's Hilary Shearing of Cravant les Coteaux, France. 

I started blood doning in the UK somewhere around twenty three or twenty four years ago, meaning 1990 or 91. I can't remember what triggered my decision to do it. Anyway the point is I did. The very first session took some blood for analysis, to correctly identify my blood type. Until then I always thought I was the O group - at least that's what I was told. It turned out I was A Rhesus Positive. Nice to know - just in case there's an emergency and I need a drop of the stuff myself. Now, along with a clean pair of knickers and pyjamas which my mother instilled in me were essential to have on hand in case of emergencies ( I still do this!!), I can also supply my correct blood type and carry the card to prove it. 

I completed my forty-seventh session in St. Margaret's Hall, Bradford on Avon and then we moved to France. Most of my doning sessions were done in St.Luke's Church Hall in Pinner, until 2008 when we moved to Wiltshire. Over the years I got to know the ceiling at St.Luke's very well. Lying prostrate waiting for someone to set you up, there wasn't much else to look at and every time I went, the system of queuing had been changed. Once on the Blood Doning register I was notified when the next session was locally. A morning and an afternoon session were available for us donors to choose from, with a lunch break in between when the hall was closed for an hour. Once inside sometimes you'd be given a number, some times a letter of the alphabet. Eventually everyone was seen. It was always a completely painless experience and very easy. The prospect of a jammy dodger biscuit and tea or coffee afterwards was of course the main inspiration. Giving blood saves lives! To hell with that, give me my jammy dodger biscuit! Fairly recently the rather old fashioned flat trolley beds were replaced by plastic chairs, similar in shape and design to the chairs in a dentist surgery. You sit upright to begin with while you're set up with the drip, then you're tilted back into a more comfortable position.  It's all very straightforward, doesn't take long but there's enough time for the tempting thought of a j.d. to wander into your thoughts.

Yesterday I looked into blood doning in France. It's something I would like to continue to do, while we're here. The national organisation is called L'Etablissement Français du Sang - www.dondusang.net. The site is comprehensive and includes a blood level gauge, showing the state of supplies. At the moment everything is seemingly in good supply. However there are five possible categories ranging from Stable, Fragile, Very Fragile, Urgent and Very Urgent, should levels begin to fall. It was from here that I found the next doning session locally is in Chinon on 21st August.

I took a deep breathe and phoned the head office in Paris. First time I've had a conversation in French about blood doning, so wasn't 100% sure of the vocabulary and technical terminology.  I explained who I was, that I'd been blood doning in the UK and that I'd like to do so while in France. The person wasn't sure if it was possible, the system was different, so passed me to someone else. They weren't sure, so passed me to someone else who wasn't sure, who passed me to someone, who at least told me that the individual I really needed to talk to wasn't there. 'Could she ask me something?' 'Of course, yes!'. 'Was I blood doning before 1996?' 'Yes I was.' 'Well in that case unfortunately, I couldn't give blood in France.'  The problem was/is Mad Cow Disease. Anyone resident in the UK for twelve consecutive months between 1980 and 1996 are not permitted to give blood in France. It's a precautionary measure. We're talking here about a seventeen to thirty-three year period exclusion zone, depending on where you fall within it. 

Volunteer blood doning is an essential part of our UK health service, so precautions against contamination are well understood, as per the list of questions you're asked every time you attend a doning session. For me the French response is a disappointing result. However what I might still do is go along to Chinon on doning day and talk to someone directly. Not knowing the science involved, I might still get a no, but if there's a glimmer, meaning a test on a sample, then I'm happy to take it. 

By the way, anyone who's not tried blood doning, please give it some thought. The teams across the UK are experienced, a timed appointment system is now in place and our health service, emergency and support services are always in need of supplies.They'd be so happy to see you.

Not quite the naked chef

Just very pleased that no one was lurking in the house with a camera yesterday. Being another hot and sultry day when it came to cooking, clothing - out of necessity - was minimal.  My head felt as if it had an elastic band wrapped round it. It wasn't helped by being woken up for the second morning in a row, at 3.45 by a violent storm. Only this time, the electricity supply was knocked out. We're completely electric here. So I will freely admit to being a bit of a misery first thing yesterday morning, which was a disappointing way to be starting the day. Didn't last long of course. Friday evening we'd had a lovely time with local neighbours who'd come round for apéros. Danielle is the owner and curator of Gallerie Cravantaise, Sylvie and Paul are a French/Dutch couple and good friends of Danielle's. They also own a Chambre d'hôte in Cravant. We've met them a few times at Gallerie private views. Their son Tristan is one of these young and talented multi-linguists - 10/11 years old approx - French, English and Dutch. He picked me up on a couple of words for which I hadn't got the pronunciation quite right. I was actually very pleased about it and thanked him. Quite happy for someone to do that, whoever and whatever age they are. Very helpful.

So a quick drive into Chinon was essential, for coffee and croissant. I quickly cheered up. It's not that the route in is particularly spectacular,  but it is quite lovely, specially on a sunny day. That and the wonderful coffee at La Treille with croissants from La Boulangerie on the corner of Place Mirabeau, completed the revival. I'm really a black coffee drinker. Sugar is a no-no in tea or coffee at any time.   But if I'm having coffee out somewhere with croissant for breakfast, then I like coffee with hot milk. Stephanie at La Treille serves the hot milk separately. It's always very good and just hits the spot.

As to the electricity problem, it didn't come back on until after midday. That's the longest power cut we've had anywhere.  Fortunately everything was still fine in the fridge and its freezer compartment. We've not taken the freezer route. Friends who have been doing the half and half visiting like us, did buy a freezer and on at least a couple of occasions have lost everything. Truly, it doesn't happen that often. It's just more a surprise when it does. Scotland and the north generally, have known a lot worse.

Cultural Icons

We have a few of these in our region. Places and events that are regarded as particularly French in their style and organisation. Well they would be - being in France. I'd assume you could say that about most countries  - how they present or offer a 'something' with a certain quality that is undeniably 'them' - contemporary as well as historical. In other words, those instantly recognisable 'must-sees', that over the last couple of decades have become very accessible, thanks to the ever expanding travel industry. Not forgetting the 'momento trade' of affordable 'nicknacks' to take back home, perhaps stuffed into a back pack or carefully buffered under layers of clothing in cases. It's big business.

There is an ongoing debate over here - TV, papers, magazines -  regarding the level of foreign ownership that has been buying up iconic France, or to be more precise, the acquisition of many of the iconic French traditions by foreign money. The suggestion from some quarters is that this trend of overseas ownership is relegating French culture to second league status. There are also concerns about the 'proper' use of French. A recent proposal which would allow French universities to teach some courses in English, has stirred up considerable feeling about the negative influence of that language, along with the  'invasion of Americanisms'. French culture is certainly changing. 

These days most of the major fashion houses are in the hands of American, Spanish, Asian and Swiss investors. Lists of the world's top fifty restaurants include perhaps six French restaurants.  The city of Tokyo has apparently more three star michelin restaurants than Paris. Companies renowned for their Frenchness are now owned by foreign corporations, pension funds and wealthy investors. And the role-call of acquisitions is growing by the month.  

As for wine, out of the thirty-seven vineyard/chateaux in the Bordeaux region that were sold last year, twenty three were bought with Chinese money. Several of France's major sports clubs are now foreign owned - Qatar and a Russian billionaire are involved. There's also an estimation that in Paris a quarter of the tobacco shops are Chinese owned.  One senses real alarm from some of the articles and discussions as to changes brought about by these economic and demographic forces.

Two key questions being asked are whether international business activity is pushing all of us to the point of cultural homogenization, where every city will look just like any other. Secondly, how does France preserve its unique cultural heritage while simultaneously embracing change and evolving? It isn't of course just a question for France.

How does all this relate to us here in Cravant? Well at the moment not hugely, although in some instances, wine producing families are finding it difficult to hand on the business to the next generation. There isn't always the interest. There has been one horror story about a foreign buyer of a nearby domaine. But keeping it in perspective, that's the only one we know about. I suppose the best example is the classic supermarket v local market, in terms of buying seasonally, rather than expecting to buy what should be seasonal fruit and vegetables, at any time. We were with friends last night for dinner and they were saying that up to about ten years ago, local produce was grown seasonally and so sold seasonally. Since the arrival of the supermarkets, their buying and selling policies have begun to have an effect in terms of both cost for the average household and availability. Increasingly, 'seasonal' produce has become all-year-round. In terms of the current debate, I imagine this is the sort of detail which traditonalists would view as an example of cultural decay.

It's a hard life

Sitting in the office later last night when it was cool, I began wondering what is must be like to be so despised and loathed and totally unaware of all the discomfort you inflict on others. This thought wandered into my mind, as a lone and very determined mosquito whined it's way round my head. Then again, may be mosquitos do know and just think 'weehee this fun, another lunch box. I'll have more of that!' 

Being an insect of course, it's not so easy to be adopted as a pet, although beetles and spiders have that history. Are mosquitos, behind this mean, vindictive and insatiable exterior, just in need of advanced training? Not that there are many classes available. Perhaps there's a grant to get one started. With the current cutbacks, probably not. In any case how to get your mosquito to the classes. On a lead? Don't think so. It would have to be in a match box. It would escape as soon as you opened it,  and your mosquito would be back into its cycle of thuggery. There's no opportunity or incentive really for mosquitos to show their softer side! Some birth control would be useful as well. Not that we have many of them where we are. Our house is on a more open plot, away from trees and water. So I can only assume that the one who was with me in the office, had been out at a rave and had got lost. Either way my compassion was limited and he or she was quickly despatched. That's another black mark on my slate.

Do we dare go out?

This is a serious question. First of all yet another Brit has won the Tour de France and the 100th edition of it as well. What a cheek! Then there is the matter of the heatwave that's descending for the next couple of days. As the temperature yesterday according to our neighbour was 40 in the shade, I'm trying to work out what that was, if the heatwave is only kicking in today. Either way my comfort zone has been crossed. Remarkably everywhere still looks very green.

Had an excellent weekend. Started off with the concert of early music on the Friday. Then Saturday there was a Voyages en guitar gig at Saint Mexme in Chinon. Shot into Chinon early for a drink at Café Français, then walked up the road for the concert which started at 9.30.  The Gérard Keryjaouën Jazz Quartet - they were brilliant. The music was inspired by the likes of Coltrane, Parker, Peterson and Jarrett amongst others. From the moment they started playing it all came together. Finished 'round midnight and yes some Dexter Gordon classics were also included in the programme, although not that particular piece. While there we met up with a Cravant wine producer Pascale Lambert and his wife Béatrice. They are probably the nearest wine producer to us. He's completely bio - wines are fairly expensive compared to others here, but they are very good. They usually sponsor the Voyages en guitare gigs with some of the wine. They introduced us to Michel Lemesle the organiser of Voyages en guitare who is staying with them, or rather in their gîte while there own place is being repaired. Discovered Michel lives in Cravant along with two others who help him. We've only ever seem them at the gigs - never in Cravant. Just one of those odd things. Anyway we've signed up to Voyages en guitar which means we get a discount to any of their concerts. Looking ahead they've their annual music weekend in September, which coincides with the Open House weekend (across Europe). If it was as good as last year, we've a great couple of days of music coming up.

Sunday was a scorcher and to add to it we'd made arrangements to go to Avon les Roches with our neighbours Jacqueline and Norbert for a big brocante - the first one they've had in the village - and dinner. The idea was that we were driving them over in the afternoon, but the planned changed slightly. It was just too hot. So we went around 5pm when it had cooled down a bit. Would have wilted otherwise. Met up with one of J&N's sons and his family who we've met quite a few times now and who live in the village. Avon les Roches has a lovely church. We've only been over there once - an afternoon - which was to look at the church's architecture, so it was great to go again and see the village partying. By the time we got there the brocante was coming to an end. They'd had a lot of people in the morning, but the afternoon was pretty dead because of the heat. While waiting for the dinner in the salle de fête, we were entertained by some local traditional dancers and singers. They were sweltering in the costumes. Footwear was the traditional clog or sabot. There are still people around who make them.  Dinner was quite something. The tickets were €12. It was all extremely well organised and presented. A grand buffet, which had been ordered from SuperU - another big supermarket here, in competition with Leclerc and Carrefour. SuperU had really done their stuff. An apéro and amuse bouche to start, then a variety of patés, salads and charcuterie as the entrée, followed by cold roast chicken and roast beef which was all quite delicious, more salads, then cheese, then dessert. Wines were Chinon - very good of course and at bargain prices. Not sure how many people but certainly over 100. All generations together, with the children having a brilliant time either playing or eating their own menu which had been specially prepared. A really fabulous evening. 

P.S. There are no you tube links to the Gérard Keryjaouën Jazz Quartet. Real shame. Featured David Salesse on double bass, Thierry Lange-Berteau on drums, Jérôme Rateau on piano and Gérard Keryjaouën on a gibson electric jazz guitar. They were all superb instrumentalists, but playing together they were superb. Really enjoying each other's company, really attentive and intuitive.

La musique ancienne

There's a great following for early music over here and with such a choice of historic buildings as venues, the settings for each concert is as interesting as the programme. Over the next three weeks there are three music festivals, which are either totally focussed on early music or the programming includes one off concerts featuring some exceptional musicians and composers.

We went to a concert this afternoon over at the Abbaye de Seuilly. It's a lovely building and site, now used for exhibitions and concerts. We go over there fairly frequently. But this visit was a last minute thing really, having spotted the leaflet late on in the week. We were intrigued and being early music fans decided to go. It was in fact a presentation of music from 1540 - 1696, by a group of about twenty musicians, led by professionals who perform together as L'Ensemble La Rêveuse. I've chosen this particular you tube link for several reasons but will come to those later.  There were four different viole de gambas, two different lutes, a théorbo and a couple of baroque guitars. Composers were a mixture of English: Holborne, Byrd, Campion, Dowland; French: Lambert, Boësset and one Italian -Falconiero. There was a mezzo-soprano and a tenor. They played for about an hour or so. It was really lovely. Such a gorgeous sound, seemingly so simple in construction but actually technically sometimes very demanding. We were so pleased we went. 

The reasons for the particular you tube link are all inter-connected. The composer being played is Marin Marais who is very highly thought of over here.  There is a wonderful French film called Tous les matins du monde. Beautiful film which is based on the life of Marin Marais, although not a huge amount is known about him so it's mostly a fictional interpretation. There is a you tube link but it simply doesn't do the film justice. The film is being shown at the Wiltshire Music Centre in Bradford on Avon in November so we're urging our music friends and francophile friends to go. We're over in the UK then, so may even go ourselves, although we have it on DVD.  The musician who played all the music for the film and is one of the top Viole de gamba players in the world is the Catalan composer, conductor and player - Jordi Savall. For the third year running he is playing in the Richlieu Music Festival, which takes place in three weeks time. It's just a thirty minute car drive up the road. This year he is giving two different concerts on the final evening of the festival. We saw him the previous two years, but can't this year.  

The next concert we are able to get to is again taking place in Seuilly, but this time at the Château du Coudray-Montpensier. It's a late afternoon concert with a guided tour of the gardens and place beforehand. So will be very interesting again and for different reasons.

Up early

Neat hedges and trim vines

The only time that is really comfortable to go for a walk at the moment is early in the morning. So today we were out by about 7.30am. It was perfect, with a gentle cooling breeze and  gorgeous light across the fields and the vines, although in the distance there was a bit of a haze. We were only walking for about forty minutes, because by then the heat was up, and the first mosquito had whizzed past my ear, on its way to bite someone no doubt. Luckily not me this time. In any case Thursday is market day, so we needed to get into Chinon at a reasonable time.

Very busy in the market today. Suddenly the holidaymakers have arrived. They are very much needed to boost the economy. Our friends Sue and Dave who rented a house in Cravant for a month and went back to the UK on Tuesday, were extremely generous in their support of local wine producers, as were Sue's two sisters and brothers in law.  Generally though, overseas visitor numbers seem to be right down. Usually the season begins in April through to October, but everywhere has been very very quiet and it's only now that the Brits and Americans have started to arrive. We'll see what happens over the next few weeks. Talking to a friend of ours in Bradford on Avon last night, it's the same there, with trade being very slow.

Meanwhile we've been taking advantage of the numerous events that are on during the summer months. Anyone who's experienced the Edinburgh Fringe Festival will known of the exhausted state of enjoyment it can engender, with the city offering twenty-four hour entertainment if you want it. Here it's not that frenetic, but you're pretty spoiled for choice.

We went to a fantastic concert at Saint Mexme on Tuesday as part of the Musiques et Patrimoine 2013 season. Featured Caroline Casadesus a soprano, although the range of the evening's programme demonstrated that she's a formidable mezzo. She was  accompanied by the superb Elena Filonova on piano. The two clearly enjoy working together and that enthusiasm was readily conveyed to the audience. We were treated to Schumann, Fauré, Schubert and Poulenc, with two encores of popular operatic pieces. Saint Mexme is one of our regular haunts and has featured in a number of blogs. We've seen jazz, rock, classical concerts there. It also from time to time hosts late night markets and open air film shows, so we always keep an eye on their programming.  

This evening we saw Ken Loach's film The Spirit of 45. I'm a great fan of his and always expect to be shaken and stirred. This time however for me this documentary felt rather an odd piece. It was an immense task to capture visually and in explanation what Britain was like in '45, the mood and aspirations, how things came about, the key players etc. It was extremely well put together with fascinating archive film and interviews with people who were heavily involved with the Union movement and employed within Britain's key industries at the time. The effects that the huge nationalisation plans of that era had on their lives and the national psyche was really very moving. In some ways The Spirit of 45 was also very depressing, and ended up feeling more like a memorial to socialism, than an source of much needed inspiration.

Wysh Zwing Thwang Boom - It must be Bastille Day

Chinon took off last night. Crazy, fun place to be! Oh to have got a photo of wine producer Patrick Lambert line dancing in the main square with wife Nadia and a host of others. Hot, packed and noisy. On July 14, Bastille Day, that's how we like it to be. Cordite filled the air, following the usual dazzling firework display, which lasted for a good twenty minutes,  against the backdrop of Chinon Castle - La Forteresse, and accompanied by some stirring classical music. The fireworks were due to start at 11pm and bang on time - oops sorry - all the lights went out, then came a brief introduction and off we went. The bangs and booms were timed to perfection and looked stunning. No one wanted it to end. The day was long but at this point, the night was young and Chinon was clearly in the mood to party.

We'd been in Chinon the night before (13th) as La Forteresse had a late-night opening, until midnight. Not been around for one of these before. Such a lovely atmosphere and the views over Chinon from the ramparts was gorgeous. On the other side of the river near the campside, live jazz was wafting across from La Guingette, which had been lit up specially. It's an open air cafe and dance/entertainment space, which also at various times in the summer, hosts open air film shows. Also discovered the café area at La Forteresse was open and that a friend of ours who runs Café Français has the concession,  so stayed for a chat and a coffee with her. Met some other people up there who we know. Got in late. 

So Sunday morning - 14 July - we came into Chinon early. There was a small parade of war veterans and local politicians to mark the official nature of the day. Being a Sunday, we wanted to pick up a few things from the small market in the square and grab a cup of coffee.The town was bustling with the market, church goers, firework specialists and the marching band. There were various family events planned for the afternoon. Our own plans involved going to dinner at Les Années 30, which we'd booked a couple of weeks before - just as well. All the restaurants were full that night. Dinner was fabulous - the six of us had a marvellous time. Got there for 8pm and left around 10.45. Legged it to the bridge in the centre of Chinon which is the best place from which to see everything. It was of course heaving, but we found a spot, literally just in time as the fireworks started about a minute after we got there. Goodness knows how many people were watching. The road over the bridge and the main road leading to it had been blocked off, so we could all move around safely. After the fireworks had finished, the crowd mostly headed towards the main square, where a stage had been set-up with a DJ and a decent dancing area in front of it. Danced around for a bit before the line dancers moved it. Line Dancing is hugely popular over here. Seriously thinking of joining a group. It is such fun.

Started looking for a table to have a late-night drink, but no chance! So in the end went back home.Cravant of course has its own celebrations which we would normally go to. But we wanted our friends to experience Chinon. It is special. Cravant of course celebrates in its own way and it's really well done. There are events for children in the afternoon, a boule competition and later a big bonfire,fireworks and music and dancing till the early hours. We've been to it at least three times since we've had the house. Something you want to go to with neighbours. Met one of them this morning - Alain. He'd been into Chinon like us and then came back to Cravant. Finally crawled into bed at 2am. So he'd a good time as well.



 

The other Cravants

By the time we moved into our house in 2008, we had already got to know a few people socially. Cravant was always up for discussion. But on one occasion reference was made to a particular event involving the French and the English. At the time I assumed it was our Cravant in the Indre et Loire region being referred to, as nothing was said to suggest otherwise.

While trying to find out a little more about Paulette Doireau author of Cravant: Coutumes et Dires, I noticed the name Cravant appeared on several separate listings. There are in fact three places with the same name. Cravant in the Yonne departement was the site of a battle between the French and the English during the Hundred Years' War, known as The Battle of Cravant.  The French Dauphinist army of 10,000 contained a large number of Scots, while the English army of 4000 led by the Earl of Salisbury contained a large number of Burgundians who had decided to side with them against the French. It seems they eye-balled each other for about three hours, as no one wanted to cross the river that ran between them. The English army finally and literally took the plunge - up to their waists - with English bowmen providing lethal cover. The French took off. The Scottish stayed and put up a fight and were slaughtered as a result.

The Battle of Cravant was fought on 31 July 1423, five hundred and ninety years ago this month. A disaster for the allied French/Scots army with at least 6000 dead and over 2000 taken prisoner. The exact same field was the scene of yet another battle - the Battle of Beaugency-Cravant - which took place during the Franco-Prussian war in 1870. Over three days (as opposed to three hours) December 8-10, the Duke of Mecklenburg fought the Armée de la Loire, and ultimately won. Conditions were terrible.

The third Cravant is in the departement of Loiret near Orléans. Doesn't appear to be a lot of information about the village, other than in 2007 there were 921 residents. Given that Orléans is only 26 kilometres away, I would have thought village history to have recorded some interesting features and facts.  

As to the meaning of the name Cravant, it has been really difficult to find anything. But eventually a few links appeared which all suggested the same thing -  that the name is associated with web-footed migratory sea birds.

Here's hoping Cravant: Coutumes et Dires comes up with an explanation.

Cravant: an aural history

I've been introduced to a fascinating book about the customs and memories of Cravant: Cravant Coutumes et Dires. It was collated by Paulette Doireau and published in 1990. From what I can find out about the author she was, perhaps still is, a member of the 'Friends of Old Chinon' - Les Amis du vieux Chinon. We've been to a couple of their meetings over the years, but were missing too often to be able to join.  Maybe now we'll have more time.

A friend from one of our Anglo/French groups, Yolande, had been reading Cravant Coutumes et Dires and thought I might like to read it. When she took it back to the library she asked that it be reserved for me, which they did, and then phoned me to say I could collect it. As it turned out, my library ticket had expired so I was able to renew it. But also over the last eighteen months, the library service here has been developed. We still have a library in the centre of Chinon. There is also another library across the river in La Rivière, a district we know from regular visits to wine producers and a particular restaurant over there which is very good. However there is now a new library on the upper edge of Chinon. The route to this branch is the same we used to take to Leclerc before it moved to its current position, so we know it well. There are also loads of communities on the upper side of town who can now be more easily tapped into. I was collecting my library book from this branch so had a good look around. Lovely building and very good stock. The point is that we have started to use the library regularly. 

Rural Cravant, as Paulette Doireau explains in the introduction to Cravant Coutumes et Dires, was a place where any event no matter how ordinary, was used an excuse to have a get together between neighbours and where horses still worked the fields. There were many local traditions and customs applied to daily life as well as a variety of spoken expressions. In less than half a century many of these and much of the way of life had been replaced by television and the tractor. So the book was written as a collective memory of times gone by, using the intricate and time consuming process of interviewing older members of the community to recount their experiences.

There are three parts to it. Part One is about food, local recipes, general life, local entertainments, clothing, nicknames, individual stories, weather. Part Two: rivers, streams, trees, the Hunt and co-operatives. Part Three: Places within the commune. There's loads of interesting things to discover. The library has given me a September return date. It was meant to be the end of July, before the library shut for the August holidays. But there's quite a bit to get through, loads of particular terms and references that I need to try and pin down. So they very kindly extended the date to the 4 September. 

What is interesting after reading just the first six pages, is how much of the imagery conveyed in the book is still found in the daily life of Cravant. There is admittedily just one, but nevertheless a vigneron who ploughs with a horse as well as with a tractor. Neighbours still get together for a drink, a picnic or a dinner, which everyone contributes to with a plate of something. At the very beginning, when we were literally helping each other to put up garden fences, a glass of two was always shared when the job was done. The essence of community spirit, although it has changed, still exists in a very practical form as we have discovered to our delight ever since we've been here.

A Euro's worth of heaven

It is warm. We've been somewhere in the 28-32 degree zone this week and it seems these temperatures will be around for a bit longer. There's been a mixture of lovely breezes and  strong gusting winds. Either way they've provided a refresher from the heat. That's not a complaint. Rather the abrupt arrival of summer, in mid-July after months and months of rain, has been a bit of a shock and left me (and probably a lot of other people) unprepared for wearing summer clothes and exposing (as in my case) those little white legs. Mike is back in shorts revealing his longer and noticeably hairier legs. I've been wearing of late some floaty dresses. Then of course there's the joy of being outside in the garden - ours or someone else's - till about 10.30 at night and still with nice light. Which is what we were doing yesterday evening, round at some friends, who have rented a house in Cravant from other friends of ours here, for a month. They go back to the UK on Tuesday. Which means we will have been back for a month as well. We all travelled to France on the same day, 17 June, but at different times. The four weeks have just flown by.

How to keep cool when it's hot? That's the question. Can stay in the pool - if you have one. We don't. Or a cold running shower. Expensive and a waste of water. Discovered that the automatic doors of supermarkets create quite a cool airstream. But it's a bit boring spending a day going in and out. The shutters on the houses here are brilliant for keeping the inside cool during the summer (and warmer in winter). It's the reason for so many holiday makers to ask. 'where's everyone?' as they pass through seemingly deserted French villages with all the houses closed up, particularly at lunchtime and in the afternoon.  Life is going on, except the shutters are either closed or latched ajar, to keep the house feeling cool and fresh. It works. 

1 Euro's worth of heaven

My own favourite piece of cooling kit, was bought about five years ago, from a little store in Malaga for the absurd price of 1 Euro. It has been eyed enviously everywhere from stuffy overcrowded foyers in theatres and packed art exhibitions, to tedious queues and warm cafés. I have a few of these now, acquired from the same place each time we went back and in a variety of colours.  Each one is slightly different. Some are decorated to an elaborate level, others less so. A few are quite plain and in single block colours - white, green and maroon. They are all small enough to fit into a shoulder/hand bag and easy to whip out in time of need. Just brilliant. One of the best investments ever.


 

Perfect Combo

Should think after yesterday's events at Wimbledon, this morning will be rather like the day after the party!  Well done Murray. Seventy-seven years on from Mr. Fred Perry and finally there's a British Men's Singles Champion. Followed play on the ticker tape equivalent of the BBC website, as the match wasn't shown on TV here and we just have French tv. Tour de France is on at the moment so most people's attention is focussed on that. 

The atmosphere must have been extraordinary and the pressure. Remember watching Virginia Wade play Betty Stove ages ago. Partisan? Us Brits partisan? The mental as well as the physical strength of anyone to play on that court in the final of a Wimbledon championship is quite something. Of course the rewards are great. But to go out there knowing that 99% of spectators really don't want you to win, and play the top of your game in excessive heat, requires some pre-match preparation. Djokovic clearly helped make the match a stunner.

We haven't been to Wimbledon for ages. Used to go regularly. Mike's parents had debenture seats, so we wafted around in a degree of comfort. Mind you we were all big tennis fans, so it was fabulous to be there. We saw some cracking matches. Those on the edge of your seat type encounters, where the light is failing, the board lights are glaring and no one - players or spectactors - wants the match to end unfinished. There is an atmosphere at Wimbledon which is very special. And yes the Pimms were good.

A friend of ours Tony Iles, sadly no longer around, was a film man for Kodak and Wimbledon was part of his remit. He took us behind the scenes. One year we were helping him make a film promo for Kodak, which was set in various places in and around the courts. Sitting on the then Wimbledon centre court roller and seeing things from the sidelines was strangely very exciting. It is a slightly high-rised atmosphere to be chatting to top cameramen like Mike Fox or going into the sound box with Virginia Wade. Lunch in a particular wimbledon house was also very interesting. Houses round the courts are frequently rented out - they make a lot of dosh. Kodak had rented a room in one of them for entertaining, so we were based in there. Every other room in the house had also been rented out for interviews, meetings and deal making. It was a fascinating experience and to see these well known players wandering in and out.

So now, Wimbledon is done for another year and we find ourselves in the perfect situation, of having a British men's singles champion and a French ladies singles champion. That will go down well with the neighbours. 

The two Ps (P's): Press and Politics

These days two very dodgy words and concepts - the press and politics. Both have been a major part of daily living and career, at least for me. I was having a discussion with Mike this morning, about the correct way of writing two letter ps. P's or Ps. I'm going with p's for now. Interestingly, working just on the sound of two letter p's in French, meaning p p, it comes out as pipi (one word), meaning to go for a pee. Devaluation of press and politics being at the level it is, pipi is a rather appropriate. Made me smile and reminded me of touring with a French theatre company, who were constantly on the look for somewhere to faire pipi. 

Have always enjoyed reading political mags, a variety whenever possible, to get a real idea of current thinking, rather just reading the stuff I know I'm going to agree with.  I have a couple posted to France, because I want to keep in touch with what's happening the other side of the channel. I really prefer reading the hard copy, rather than quickly scrutinising the web. So another love/dislike relationship as with books and the Kindle. Need both in my life.  

UK media is one thing but French media is something else, which I'm just starting to get to grips with. Newspapers are readily available and there's still a reasonable choice.  Le Monde et Le Figaro are two that most people know. Le Monde is centre left and Le Figaro centre right. So cut and dried! There are others that are regarded as left, left-wing, far-left and communist, whereas the alternatives are all described as centre right. Can't find anything described as right, right-wing, far-right or fascist. 

Two publications that I've just found out about are Le Canard enchaîné, created in 1915 and Mediapart, created by the former editor-in-chief of Le Monde in 2008.  For some time, particularly during the de Gaulle and Mitterand periods, and seemingly apart from Le Canard enchaîné (regarded as far-left),  investigative journalism was effectively put on hold. Now along with Mediapart, these two independents seem to be having an impact and are really shaking things up. Both survive by subscription fees and are advertisement free. Mediapart as part of a multi-pronged strategy launched Frenchleaks - inspired of course by Wikipedia.

I have loads to read.

Closer to home

Went to a private view amongst other things yesterday. Scorching day. Yes finally, we have some decent weather and the change in people and landscape is amazing. Everything and everyone is feeling better. The vines are really taking off and looking flush with autumn promise for the harvest. Galerie Cravantaise was the venue for the p.v. which we've always gone to whenever we've been around. Now of course it's easier. Danielle owns and runs the gallery. Lovely lady and very generous  with her time and space. Some things you like, some you don't. But it's always a pleasure to visit.

Yesterday's p.v. was a bit different. Being the last expo before the new season starts in September, it was really more like a party. Live music by two young guys - drums and guitar - who were finishing setting up  as we arrived. The two were mates as children and now play rock music together and the family are friends of Danielle. There were various exhibitions in three barns/troglodyte caves accessed from Danielle's garden. An outside staircase led to two more rooms over the caves, so sculptures and other artworks in there. She's also given over the lounge area of her house to paintings.Then along with the musicians outside, more artists had set up and were painting and chatting as everyone walked around. 


Think Sue and Dave liked a couple of things, as did we, but as much as anything it was a lovely evening and a great atmosphere.  A real summer buzz.

Avoine Blues Festival - Kick off

Been building up to the Avoine Blues Festival all week which in fact started last night. Cinéma Rabelais Chinon got an early lead from hosting a free showing of Alan Parker's The Commitments. The band were the headline act for the opening night of the festival. We couldn't remember when the film was made. Turned out to be 1991. Terrific movie, terrific music. French subtitles.Grabbed supper afterwards just down from the cinema -outside at Café des Arts.  Fortunately we were undercover, as the heavens suddenly opened and treated us to yet another hefty dousing.

Avoine Blues Festival (ABF) has been been going since 1999, although we only got to know about it in the last five years. We haven't always been in France at the right time, so made it only once when Status Quo were the headline act. It was one of those decisions to go, based on they've been around for ages, might not be going for that much longer, probably past their best, but let's do it. They were simply amazing. The chapiteau - the really big tent and main space (not 02 scale however) - was jammed with people and they were leaping. The festival runs for  four days, Thursday to Sunday. S.Q. were playing the final gig on the Sunday evening, which always starts at the rather odd time (at least for the UK) of 6pm. Status Quo were fabulous, totally exhilarating and it was entirely due to that experience that this year, now that we're around, we decided to go again. We got a pass each for the whole four days. Doing it that way and in advance, the tickets became silly money of E17 a pop rather than E35 on the door.

So off we went last night. ABF has a reputation, so expectations were high. It's very well sponsored and by some high profile companies, but even so it feels like a friendly community festival. Well organised with a stream of volunteers to run the bars; a few kiosks selling paraphernalia. Half the main site is free admission, with a smaller stage area scène Rest'O Blues, again covered, and where the free gigs are played. The festival kicks off from there and this year, with Little Bob Blues Bastards. We'd seen him/them before at Café Français in Chinon. They've also played at Le Temps des Crises, where we were the other night. Fantastic band live. Can't find a decent youtube link that does them justice. Little Bob is a pint sized dynamo - born 1945. Real name Roberto Piazza, a native of Havre, although his father was an anarchist from Northern Italy during Mussolini's time. The music is French rock, inspired by blues, rhythmn 'n' blues and British rock of the 60s. The musicians in the band are from different musical backgrounds - jazz, rock & blues. Unsurprisingly Little Bob's fan club is considerable. It was a superb 2 hour set, which really set the mood and upped the expectations for the paid bands coming afterwards in Le Chapiteau. 

There were two gigs scheduled. A tribute to Alan Jack followed by The Commitments. Alan Jack. Difficult to find a lot of info about him. But it was evident last night, that he was highly thought of. Late 60s band who daringly for the time, sang a lot in English. Seemingly influenced by Fleetwood Mac, Ten Years After, Chicken Shack and Savoy Brown. There was a recently compiled film about him, and some of those interviewed played last night. They were fronted by one of the backing singers. One of those weird moments when something from the past is recreated, but without the original creative and charismatic personality to lead it. So it doesn't achieve anything. Only really started coming together towards the end, by which time we were getting desperate and looking for a window to escape through, except there wasn't one. Finally it finished, 30 mins late, so the techies reorganised the stage and at last The Commitments arrived. Only this lot were a Tribute band not the real thing, there were one or two from the original band. Having just seen the film and hearing some great soul tracks, the Avoine version of The Commitments just didn't measure up. Soul has got to come from the heart. If it's purely mechanical, it just fizzles out, like last night.

Tonight however is another night. At least we hope so.

Restful Sunday

Cravant was strangely quiet on Sunday. Nothing and no one seemed to be moving. As for the Shearing household, the morning remains a bit of a mystery. Fatigue had well and truly crept in. I remember not remembering that Mike had very kindly brought me a cup of coffee. Apart from that nothing registers until lunchtime, which was a fleeting mouthful, and then getting ourselves sorted out to meet up with friends at the cinema at 5pm to see Le Grand Mariage/The Big Wedding with Robert De Niro, Diane Keaton, Susan Sarandon and Robin Williams. Perfect Sunday afternoon viewing for the half-awake, featuring a stellar cast making a stellar job of a weak script with a predictable ending. Played to perfection by all, it was as a result very, very funny. Back we went to Cravant. Our friends arrived shortly after. We all relaxed outside in balmy early evening sunshine, before sitting down to mushroom risotto which was followed by another pavlova. I'd made two. A large pavlova for Saturday and a smaller one for the four of us on Sunday. It all worked out very well. Our friends had also had a good evening the night before, at a birthday dinner party and like us they had achieved a significant level of haziness. Another good evening together, as per usual when the four of us meet up, with lots of interesting conversations and laughter. Great way to wind up the weekend.