The Stare

Cravant:The Old Church

There is a particular facial expression which I haven't as yet attempted to capture on camera. Asking someone if they'd mind you taking their photo, when they're grasping a hoe in one hand and grimacing at you with an intensity that could sink a thousand ships, isn't a good idea. We've nicknamed it The French Stare, although without doubt it's universal - both in time and place.

At the moment we drive an English registration car.  That immediately attracts attention, even from people who've seen you and the car - even you in the car - for a few years. They watch you approach, stop what they're doing, stare closely as the car pulls alongside, and as it passes by, and they continue to follow you as you leave. If we've seen them about a few times, we'll maybe wind down the window and say 'Bonjour Mme/monsieur' (depending on who it is) which more often than not, will get a grin. It's mostly individuals of  'a certain age' who adopt the unblinking stare, in the street, on the corner, outside the breadshop, in front of the church. Drop into a café, one that you're new to and heads will turn, voices drop, and then, the stare.

In France, the thing to do to 'break the ice' is simply to say (with a smile), 'Messeurs-dames' - taking in everyone as you say it. This is the polite way in our region to enter a café, bar or restaurant.  You'll probably get the same back in polite acknowledgement. There are two cafés in Chinon we use regularly. We always say it when we go in, at least when there's someone in there to say it to. Others say it when they come in. It's the convention. The same applies when you leave- just a quick 'Messeurs-dames'  to everyone. You can also say, 'bonne continuation', which in this context means 'all the best'. 

It's one of those seemingly little things that make such a difference.