Tales from Cravant

Tales from Cravant
A Cravant View

Saturday, September 22, 2012

Messing about in boats

1: Boats at Candes St Martin.
Boats have played a significant part in the history of the Loire and the Vienne, much as they have in London on the Thames. Boat making is still carried on here. There's  a traditional boat maker near to us (about 20mins away) in St. Germain sur Vienne. He never seems short of work, with always two or three boats on the go in his workshop. We drive by on our way to either Saumur or Montsoreau. The Chateau at Montsoreau has taken the life of the Loire as its theme, and traces its story through all the seasons, revealing along the way, the Loire's history as a river of transport and trade. A riveting place, with exquisite presentation of scale models of traditional boats, alongside some wonderful found objects.  Coupled with special lighting and sound effects, you can easily imagine the gentle pace of a merchant's river boat, drifting through the day into the night. 


2. Moored and waiting
Some boats have small covered areas/cabins (photo1), while others (photo 2) are open rowing boats . We often see people fishing from them.

Boat excursions are available in the season. 
The type of boat and journey varies considerably. Chinon provides a simple no frills round trip excursion. If you've seen the film Lion in Winter (1968) you'll appreciate the possibilities when you remember Katherine Hepburn being rowed to Chinon in the opening sequences. The town is given a totally different perspective from the river.  Candes St Martin has gone for something more elaborate, including breakfast sailings at sunrise, dinner at sunset and a whole array of trips in between. Hopefully
next year we'll take a trip probably from Chinon.  

Just arriving

There are of course sail boats. Chinon hosts a traditional boat festival every year. We went for the first time this year. It's a river celebration, with traditional boats of all sizes and shapes moored along the river's edge. If you walk over Chinon bridge there is a wide open space the other side, which hosts the town's open air events throughout the year. Film shows, fireworks for July 14, dances, barbecues. For the boat festival, the space was used for a crafts gathering, with workshops and demonstrations, items for sale, all of which were focussed on boating and river life. We went for the first time this year. Our timing was just right, the weather ideal and as we walked over Chinon bridge, the last boat was arriving. A fully rigged traditional boat coming towards us - its one sail billowing out with the wind. It was handled superbly, changing course effortlessly towards its mooring. A majestic scene.

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