About David

David

Back in December 2013, I wrote a piece about Mike's cousins David and Taffy Shearing. It was thanks to them particularly, that I returned from my first visit to South Africa in 1979, better informed than when I arrived. The blog served another purpose, which was to mark the passing of Nelson Mandela and included a Christmas letter to the family that Taffy had written - an account of the occasion where she met Nelson Mandela and the events surrounding it, which were far from ordinary. 

The blog this time marks the passing of David Shearing after a long battle with cancer.

David had a motto - "I shall pass through this world but once. Any good thing that I can do or kindness I can show any human being, let me do it now and not defer it, for I shall not pass this way again."

David and Taffy lived this credo to the limit. They were passionate and committed to each other, to their shared interests, but also to doing what was right.  In a country like South Africa, during the apartheid days, this took considerable determination and courage.

I first met David and Taffy when they had their sheep farm Layton, which was in the karoo - an extraordinary landscape, tough semi-desert, vast, challenging, sometimes dangerous, endlessly fascinating, always majestic. It is South Africa's biggest eco-system.  I fell in love with the place and the cousins, and even though the family moved away some time ago, when Mike and I go back to South Africa, we always make a pilgrimage to the karoo.

Dinner, that first night of that first visit to Layton was a different affair for this London girl. 
David had been having problems with a porcupine. Although endearingly like an oversized hedgehog, said porcupine had been raiding David's vegetable patch and causing a certain amount of damage. David had had enough. The trial of wits took place in the early hours one morning a few days before, and the outcome arrived on a carving plate, fortunately without the quills. A delicious roast, served with squash. 

Life on a farm in the karoo was never easy. But with David and Taffy there was always energy to do more. Taffy when we first met was greatly into dyeing and weaving, probably doing the spinning as well. I use one of her cushions as a back prop while I'm typing. David was a karoo bird man. Even a small speck on the horizon could be immediately identified. But it was for his knowledge of karoo flowers that David was renowned. This led to a series of publications: Karoo-South African Wild Flowers Guide of which there are six volumes, but also the creation of a karoo flower walk at the Karoo National Park near Beaufort West. We walked that walk with David one time.

The karoo landscape wasn't the only trail of discovery to be mined. Family history proved irresistible. Taffy with her Welsh ancestry, David with his Anglo/Scottish ancestry, have led to an impressive family tree that spreads across many centuries and countries. I first saw the South African Shearing's family bible, back in the 80s. An enormous tome, that David's mother, Aunt Marge was attempting to update in her beautiful fountain-penned handwriting. Now of course through David and Taffy's perseverance the family tree is online. 

However it is probably their combined work on the South African war in the Cape Colony, that represents David and Taffy's greatest achievement. It is a true legacy and testament to their tenacity. They produced a series of books - the Cape Commando Series. Taffy did the writing and David the editing and marketing. The research was a real labour of love, stretching over many years. Ultimately together, they produced a new book entitled The Rebel Record the database for which had previously been used by Taffy in support of her dissertation for her doctorate -
The Cape Rebel of the South African War 1899-1902 - which she submitted and was awarded in 2004.

In the Dedication for her doctorate Taffy wrote:

"This thesis is dedicated to my husband, David, my true friend and life's companion. 
I am the most privileged of people to have written a thesis in an atmosphere of genuine encouragement and steadfast support. For this, my love, I am deeply grateful."

To Taffy, Eleanor, Michelle and all the family, this blog is dedicated to a wonderful human being whom we are privileged to have known.  For this we are deeply grateful.

Hilary and Mike

Domaine Noiré - C'est top!

We've often said how spoilt we are for good food and good wine in this part of France, and mentioned the conviviality that pervades daily life. Sometimes all three elements come together in one place. This is the experience at Domaine de Noiré, conveniently situated on our way in to Chinon.

Our first encounter with Domaine de Noiré and the owners Jean-Max and Odile Manceau, was at the Chinon Wine Fair (April) about five years ago. Since we moved here in 2013, we've got to know them quite well. It was their wines we took over to the UK as Christmas presents last year for family and friends. We went with neighbours to their first season of summer jazz, also in 2014, and we've shared a few evenings together. They are charming people. 

Jean-Max was until 2014, President du syndicat des vins de Chinon, a position he held for seventeen years and from 2010 until this year, President de la Fédération des Associations Viticoles d'Indre et Loire et de la Sarthe. He and Odile represent the best of their profession.They are lovers of the land and the grape, working in harmony with their environment to produce the most beautifully structured, smooth and balanced reds, whites, rosé and pétillant. 

The reputation of the Chinon appellation is firmly centre on its relationship with food. 
At Domaine de Noiré, the team has recognised the need for visitors to better understand the pairing of wine with food as well as the process of wine production. So they have developed a Wine Tourism programme, which offers various packages whereby visitors can discover the pleasure of Domaine de Noiré wines, local cuisine and other cultural delights.

Jean-Max studying the viennoiserie

We were very priviledged to be invited to the launch of the Wine Tourism programme last Thursday. The others guests were journalists, professional marketeers, wine experts and tourism specialists. We were there for various reasons, one of which was my involvement with the voluntary Greeters programme at the Tourism Office in Chinon. 

It was a morning affair which began around 9am at Domaine de Noiré, with coffee and viennoiserie. Jean-Max and Odile were perfect hosts. We each introduced ourselves to the rest of the group and chatted happily together before beginning our discovery of the Domaine's and Chinon's heritage. We had been told to wear something warm.

une calèche

We left by horse-drawn carriage/une calèche, a 22-seater pulled by Tino and Titeuf and made our way, so comfortably to the pier on the Vienne in the centre of Chinon. It's a great way to travel and the day was absolutely perfect for it. The calèche and horses belong to Domaine de Noiré and are used for various official functions at other times of the year. 

At the pier we made our way on to a local barge (une gabare) operated by the Vienne Loire Navigation Company, who in fact we have travelled with before, but that time in an open boat, whereas this time there was  a large open-sided cabin towards the back, which could be closed up if the weather was bad. 

La Forteresse - Chinon

Once everyone was on board, we set off for a river trip, which took us on a round-trip to experience both sides of the Vienne. From the river La Forteresse at Chinon looks particularly stunning - a real Lion in Winter moment. Terrific ride, incredibly comfortable and of course forewarned we were wearing the right gear, to counter the river breeze.

As we sailed gracefully along in what must have been near perfect conditions, we were treated to a gourmet picnic - wines from Domaine de Noiré (red and rosé) and mouthfuls of heaven prepared by the chef from Au Chapeau Rouge (Chinon) - Christophe Duguin, including terrine of foie gras, fish terrine with Touraine saffron, goat's cheese. We met him when we first arrived at Domaine de Noiré in the morning. 

Tino and Titeuf

We returned to the pier, climbed back on to the calèche, and made our way to Domaine de Noiré, where were given a tour of the cave, with Jean-Max providing the history and explanation. There was an extra wine tasting treat of the two white wines produced at the Domaine. "Amphora" which is produced in an Italian Amphora (a huge terracotta pot-container), which brings a whole new meaning to hand-crafted wine. Our tasting was silky, delicate and just lovely. The other "Noiré Blanc" was fabulous, complex and just delicious. Both will be ready in a few months.

Our now "end of morning" rounded off with more wine tasting, more delights from Christophe Duguin, particularly the Nougat de Tours, which has a sweet pastry base, with candied fruit, apricots, with almond macaroon or macaronade on top. There is a wide variety of recipes but Christophe Duguin as with everything else has made this one his own. The original recipe goes back to the Middle Ages - the time of Leonardo da Vinci and a Touraine (includes our region - Indre et Loire) speciality.

The whole event was superbly managed and beautifully presented. A truly fabulous time, which launched Domaine de Noiré's new initiative and the new season in real style.

Chapeau et merci à tous !! 

Lunch at the Boule de Fort

Bon Accord

Chinon is full of surprises. We've got to know the town steadily over a number of years and particularly since we moved here full-time in 2013. But there is always something new to be discovered. Which is what happened earlier this year and how we ended up cooking lunch for 45 people this week.

We've a lot of French friends who are always introducing us or involving us in hitherto unknown events and organisations. One of these is the Boule de Forte Club in Chinon - Cercle de Bon Accord, which our friends and long-time members Gilles et Marie-Lou invited us to visit for lunch, in November last year. The lunches take place once a month. Someone plans the menu - there's a rota, others look after the apéros, and there are plenty of hands to help serve the meal on the day. We've been to five lunches now, including our own this last week!

The Bon Accord is a great place, but well hidden. We've driven past it at least once a week probably, over the last seven years and not realised it was there. The building is set well back from the road and when the full-size wooden front gates are closed, it is invisible, even to someone walking by.  So the fact that the club was there at all was the first surprise.

Inside there's the main room with a bar at the end. Usually the tables are together in small groups, but for a lunch the space is re-organised. If there's around 25 people, the tables are laid out width ways on. For our lunch, they were set up length ways from the far end to just in front of the bar. It's a good space and very practical.

The welcome we got the first time we went was just lovely. The members are great and very friendly. That's how it's been ever since.  We took to it straight away and said we'd like to sign up. So from January this year we've been going once a month, for lunch with other members. We've have tried the game once and hopefully will be able to sort out a bit of tuition, so we understand the rules and technique a bit better. There are differences between boule and English bowls. It's difficult to see in the photo, but the rink is curved, which requires a different technique to play, more like placing the boule rather than launching it.

Ready to go

A couple of months ago at another lunch, Gilles suggested we organise an English lunch. Thinking that the usual number of members booking was manageable, we said yes.  Given the reputation English cooking has generally in France, I convinced myself that only about a dozen or so would sign up rather than the usual 25. So I sorted out a menu which was posted up a month in advance. 

What neither we or anyone else had remembered was that Easter was the weekend immediately before. Allowing for preparation time, meant that the shopping had to be done on the Saturday. 

Marie-Christine

Just before the Easter weekend we had a meeting at the club to run through everything with our helpers, which is when we discovered there were 45 coming, the largest number there'd ever been for lunch, some of whom were chefs. Mike was in origami-chef mode, so was making all the apéros. I had a shopping list sorted out, but now needed to adjust the quantities. We'd also been in touch with our regular music pals, so our two French friends Christine and Patrick were coming so we could sing together during the apéros. The songs were half and half in French and English and completely English.  We'd hoped they could both stay for lunch, but in the end Patrick had to get back to work.

Anyway come the day we got there for 10am and basically everything went like clockwork, except for the ovens, which cooked differently. Fortunately everything was fine. The singing went down well as did Mike's apéros. Everyone was very complimentary about the meal, which given all the clean plates was very satisfying. Huge relief truly. Most grateful to all our helpers at the club, particularly Marie-Christine, Janine, Gilles.

So we did ok - phew!!

All Quiet on the French Front . . .

Well not exactly, although it might seem like it, given that my last posting was back in February. In fact we've been flat out, working hard and having a great time. Started on the garden with the help of neighbours. It had got out of shape and there was some problematic planting. If we can keep going, just doing a bit at a time, we'll get it done. Going to be decorating shortly as well.

At the moment we're up to our necks with cooking. Doing a lunch tomorrow in Chinon. 
We joined a club back in January which has its own Boule de Fort court. Once a month they have a lunch which is organised on a rota basis, but basically there is a handful of people who do the cooking and others who help. Anyway the friend who got us involved suggested we did an English lunch in April, usually for around 25 people, but for some reason this time there are 45 coming. It's been an interesting exercise. We've never cooked lunch for that number before. It's always a traditional four course menu, including cheese, and there's all the apéro stuff as well. So a lot of work. Right now we're both feeling a bit knackered. Oh and they've also asked us to do some singing beforehand!

No one at the time had realised this lunch was straight after Easter. Here everything was closed except for Saturday morning, so we braved Leclerc to get all the shopping done. Went early so it wasn't too bad. Some friends from the club came as well to help. There's an account with Leclerc so we didn't have pay for anything as it all got charged back to the club.

Anyway keep everything crossed that it goes well.

Marketing Wine in France - The Big Question

If there was a choice of one item that immediately says France, at least in the minds of visitors, it would probably be wine.  Holiday makers and day-trippers are usually on the look-out for a wine bargain. Back in the UK of course there will be a good range of French wines on supermarket shelves, in wine depots and special wine stores. These days with the internet, it's easy to find wine from anywhere in the world and order it online direct from the merchant. There are wine tasting clubs and restaurants who organise special dinners around a particular wine estate, for regular diners - at a price of course. Then there are all those wine offers in magazines and newspapers, on the tv and through internet advertising. Think of all those promos around holiday periods. And what about M&S and their special £10 dinner with wine offer that appears regularly on t.v. Advertising and the promotion of alcohol from wines and malts through sherry, beers, ciders and everything else in between, is a regular feature in British culture.

In 1991, the Evin Law was introduced in France with the aim of regulating alcohol (and tobacco) advertising. It can be summarised as follows:

• no advertising should be targeted at young people
• all drinks over 1.2 per cent alcohol by volume are considered as alcoholic beverages.
• no advertising is allowed on television or in cinemas
• no sponsorship of cultural or sport events is permitted
• advertising is permitted only in the press for adults, on billboards2, on radio channels (under precise conditions), at special events or places such as wine fairs, wine museums. When advertising is permitted, its content is controlled.
• messages and images should refer only to the qualities of the products such as degree, origin, composition, means of production, patterns of consumption
• a health message must be included on each advertisement to the effect that ”l’abus d’alcool est dangereux pour la santé“ : alcohol abuse is dangerous for health.

Whilst places and media where advertising is authorised, are defined, the internet is not mentioned explicitly as permissible media. It was not fully developed in 1991 when the law was passed. Although modified in 2005, the internet was still not mentioned in the revised law. Its status therefore remains the same. This means, by omission, that it is illegal to advertise wine online in France. The result has been an increase in self-censorship, with companies unwilling to risk prosecution.

Looking at two of France's wine competitors - Spain and Italy - which are both big exporters of wine, the two countries have placed wine at the centre of their cultural, tourism and heritage drives.  This status has been written into the Iberian Law of 2013, thereby giving it a legal basis.

There are all sorts of initiatives and developments in France, which illustrate the cultural positioning of wine. The gastronomic meal of France for example has been on Unesco's World Heritage List since 2010, recognising the social practice of eating and drinking well. Tours a nearby large and vibrant town which we visit regularly, is one within a network labelled as 'gastronomic cities'. With those others, Tours is established as a verified reference point in the culture of the vine and wine. Since 2012, the University of Bourgogne has been offering a diploma in Wine, Culture and Wine Tourism. A fascinating initiative by the University Hospital in Clermont-Ferrand, which began in September last year, saw the opening of a wine bar as part of its palliative care programme.

The Evin Law and the restrictions that it has invoked must present real problems for viticulteurs. There are the additional questions about cost of marketing and promotion, should the law fundamentally change. Who would be able to afford it? What would happen to the smaller producers without the resources?

In this light, the success of St. Vincent, with its marriage of good food and good wine, is crucial for Cravant as well as the wider Chinon appellation.  We are following developments with interest.

Compagnie Hervé Koubi

Chinon has a multi-purpose venue in the centre of town called L'Espace Rabelais. We go there often and for different things. Some are annual or occasional events. Others, such as was the dance piece we saw the other night, are one-offs. Compagnie Hervé Koubi came to Chinon a couple of years ago, although we missed them then, and returned this year with a new piece last week, Ce que le jour doit à la nuit.

The all-male dance company of twelve from Algeria were simply stunning. Very physical in appearance and style, they were originally all 'street dancers', mostly Hip Hop, that the choreographer met on his travels. Their roots emerge from time to time in some of the movement, set to an eclectic mix of Bach, Hamza El Din & the Kronos Quartet and Sufi music. Quite mesmerising.

I've found some you tube clips of the company performing this new piece. They give an idea, but not a true impression of the complexity of the choreography, the technical and interpretative demands.  L'Espace Rabelais was full, which tells you everything really.   Fortunately at the end of the performance while Hervé Koubi was introducing the dancers individually, he explained that they have already started developing a new piece of choreography, which hopefully will be coming to Chinon in 2017. Fingers are crossed!

St.Vincent-celebrating in style

Ready for St.Vincent-Cravant 2015

So much for N.Y. resolutions.Started this ten days ago and then got distracted. Anyway we've been to a few parties lately. Or to be more precise a few St. Vincent celebrations. Cravant has excelled itself, resulting in some superb publicity.

It's probably about ten or twelve years ago, that we went to our very first St.Vincent. Since then, we've been going alternate years up until this year, when we managed two. Cravant our own village was the first, which is always held in January and the second, a week later, was in the salle de fête in Île de Bouchard, which is just up the road from us.

This year, Cravant achieved pole position in France, for the largest village party celebrating St Vincent-the patron Saint of wine-producers. It is an extraordinary achievement, resulting from years of consistently high-standards, hard work and determination.

Our introduction to St.Vincent took place in a large marquee which at the time was erected behind the salle de fête in the centre of the village. We didn't have our house then, but were staying with British friends who had a holiday home the other side of the village. Being Londoners with varying connections, we were used to large-scale catering and prestigious events, so the idea of St.Vincent was in our minds just another 'party'. We hadn't reckoned on being blown away by the quality, the efficiency, the professionalism and what we now know as being integral to this community's life, the conviviality.

That year there were 600 people. A wooden floor had been installed and heating as St.Vincent in Cravant, always on takes place on the last Saturday in January each year. The tables were laid up for silver service and looked fabulous. There was a stage area for announcements and presentations. I suppose then we were paying around €50 p.p. for an event that  started at midday and finished in the early hours of the morning, and was inclusive of everything.

Fast forward to 2015. We're sitting in a huge marquee that sits 1600 quite comfortably, floor, heating, once again beautifully laid out. Alongside there is another marquee that houses the catering and serving teams which this year totals seventy people. Tickets were €84. We hadn't been sure if this number of people would work, but from our point of view, it was once again delicious.- a six course meal very well presented, with special wines, a tombola and entertainment. The meal finished around 8.30, then as per usual everyone left - for a wine tasting. Coaches had been laid on to transport people round the five wine producers. We walked to two nearby ones with neighbours and spent some time at Philippe Pion's Domaine des Quatre Vents. Makes lovely wine and there were lots of people there that we knew. So we pretty much stayed put. Eventually we wandered back to the marquee for some dancing. Think we got in around 2am.

Numbers of out of region visitors are increasing. We and our neighbours certainly weren't aware of that many locals. For Cravant it is now well established and has acquired a very good reputation. Apparently at least 200 people had to be turned away. Whether or not the numbers will be increased again, we don't as yet know. But there seems to be two trains of thought. One to keep it to 1600 and the other to go for 2000+. The problem with events like this is that the cost of them doesn't increase neatly across the event as a whole. There seem to be the same numbers of sponsors. Around 35. So there is a question as to what is going to happen next. Hopefully we'll discover more at the A.G.M.

I should add that St. Vincent at Île de Bouchard was brilliant and also the first time we'd been. There was a Mass to begin with, but afterwards everyone met at Panzoult in the huge cave which overlooks the village. It's an amazing place, which we visit at least once a year but always on May 1 for the annual Foire au vins. There were some prayers, speeches and an apéro or two, before we drove the short distance to the salle de fête in Île de Bouchard. We were with neighbours again and mutual friends. Probably about 400 people. Beautifully laid out. The same chef and team as at Cravant, although obviously smaller. Wonderful atmosphere. Lots of local people who were there to have a wonderful time. And we all did. Singing, dancing, sometimes on chairs and on the tables.  Loved it.
Hopefully we'll go again next year.