Domaine Noiré - C'est top!

We've often said how spoilt we are for good food and good wine in this part of France, and mentioned the conviviality that pervades daily life. Sometimes all three elements come together in one place. This is the experience at Domaine de Noiré, conveniently situated on our way in to Chinon.

Our first encounter with Domaine de Noiré and the owners Jean-Max and Odile Manceau, was at the Chinon Wine Fair (April) about five years ago. Since we moved here in 2013, we've got to know them quite well. It was their wines we took over to the UK as Christmas presents last year for family and friends. We went with neighbours to their first season of summer jazz, also in 2014, and we've shared a few evenings together. They are charming people. 

Jean-Max was until 2014, President du syndicat des vins de Chinon, a position he held for seventeen years and from 2010 until this year, President de la Fédération des Associations Viticoles d'Indre et Loire et de la Sarthe. He and Odile represent the best of their profession.They are lovers of the land and the grape, working in harmony with their environment to produce the most beautifully structured, smooth and balanced reds, whites, rosé and pétillant. 

The reputation of the Chinon appellation is firmly centre on its relationship with food. 
At Domaine de Noiré, the team has recognised the need for visitors to better understand the pairing of wine with food as well as the process of wine production. So they have developed a Wine Tourism programme, which offers various packages whereby visitors can discover the pleasure of Domaine de Noiré wines, local cuisine and other cultural delights.

Jean-Max studying the viennoiserie

We were very priviledged to be invited to the launch of the Wine Tourism programme last Thursday. The others guests were journalists, professional marketeers, wine experts and tourism specialists. We were there for various reasons, one of which was my involvement with the voluntary Greeters programme at the Tourism Office in Chinon. 

It was a morning affair which began around 9am at Domaine de Noiré, with coffee and viennoiserie. Jean-Max and Odile were perfect hosts. We each introduced ourselves to the rest of the group and chatted happily together before beginning our discovery of the Domaine's and Chinon's heritage. We had been told to wear something warm.

une calèche

We left by horse-drawn carriage/une calèche, a 22-seater pulled by Tino and Titeuf and made our way, so comfortably to the pier on the Vienne in the centre of Chinon. It's a great way to travel and the day was absolutely perfect for it. The calèche and horses belong to Domaine de Noiré and are used for various official functions at other times of the year. 

At the pier we made our way on to a local barge (une gabare) operated by the Vienne Loire Navigation Company, who in fact we have travelled with before, but that time in an open boat, whereas this time there was  a large open-sided cabin towards the back, which could be closed up if the weather was bad. 

La Forteresse - Chinon

Once everyone was on board, we set off for a river trip, which took us on a round-trip to experience both sides of the Vienne. From the river La Forteresse at Chinon looks particularly stunning - a real Lion in Winter moment. Terrific ride, incredibly comfortable and of course forewarned we were wearing the right gear, to counter the river breeze.

As we sailed gracefully along in what must have been near perfect conditions, we were treated to a gourmet picnic - wines from Domaine de Noiré (red and rosé) and mouthfuls of heaven prepared by the chef from Au Chapeau Rouge (Chinon) - Christophe Duguin, including terrine of foie gras, fish terrine with Touraine saffron, goat's cheese. We met him when we first arrived at Domaine de Noiré in the morning. 

Tino and Titeuf

We returned to the pier, climbed back on to the calèche, and made our way to Domaine de Noiré, where were given a tour of the cave, with Jean-Max providing the history and explanation. There was an extra wine tasting treat of the two white wines produced at the Domaine. "Amphora" which is produced in an Italian Amphora (a huge terracotta pot-container), which brings a whole new meaning to hand-crafted wine. Our tasting was silky, delicate and just lovely. The other "Noiré Blanc" was fabulous, complex and just delicious. Both will be ready in a few months.

Our now "end of morning" rounded off with more wine tasting, more delights from Christophe Duguin, particularly the Nougat de Tours, which has a sweet pastry base, with candied fruit, apricots, with almond macaroon or macaronade on top. There is a wide variety of recipes but Christophe Duguin as with everything else has made this one his own. The original recipe goes back to the Middle Ages - the time of Leonardo da Vinci and a Touraine (includes our region - Indre et Loire) speciality.

The whole event was superbly managed and beautifully presented. A truly fabulous time, which launched Domaine de Noiré's new initiative and the new season in real style.

Chapeau et merci à tous !!