The Arts Crowd

Autumn Bell

Having spent thirty+ years immersed in the London arts scene - career and for fun - the decision to move away wasn't an easy one. Our choices of where to move to were heavily influenced by the degree of arts stuff available. We breathe the arts, so continued access was very important. Sounds very smug I know, but with both places we've pretty much aced it. Bradford on Avon (BOA) has been a creative town for centuries and continues to attract all sorts of artistic talent, many of whom are nationally (and internationally) very well known. Bath which is about 8k from BOA is packed with arts events in all sorts of conceivable spaces and all year round, as is Bristol. Then there are annual music and literature festivals in nearby-ish Cheltenham, Salisbury and Gloucester.  And of course London isn't that far away so we usually go back at least a couple of times a year.  We're there the weekend before Christmas.

Our French life is similarly busy with arts events.  From time to time we'd do the usual touristy things of visiting chateaux and gardens. But pretty much all of them organise special themed events and late night openings as an extra way of attracting visitors. Living half the year in France we've gradually become aware of the depth of the creative life in the region. Obviously there's a lot more happening during the season, but being around regularly, you get to know those smaller hidden places and spaces which operate all year round and which we always support when we're here.

Some of them I've already mentioned in earlier blogs and there's more to come. But as far as well known faces are concerned this side of the Channel, the Loire has certainly attracted some 'star' turns. Two of the best known are Leonard da Vinci and to give him his full name, Joseph Mallord William Turner. A quick drive over to Amboise will bring you to the Clos Lucé - Leonardo da Vinci's last destination, which is dedicated to his memory and creative genius, with fabulous working scale models in the house as well as the gardens. Turner was totally besotted with the Loire and appears to have sketched his way along the Loire via Brittany. Whether or not he came to Chinon or Cravant even, I've no idea, but he certainly went to Amboise and Saumur which is another big town to blog about at some stage. The Tate has at least one of Turner's French scenes in its collection. Turner also encouraged other British artists to experience the Loir, including Samuel Proute (architectural watercolour), William Callow (landscape, engraving, watercolour) and Clarkson Stanfield. He was a real turn up. I had heard of him as being an exceptional marine painter, but it turns out that he also worked in the theatre as a scene painter, including the Drury Theatre in London.

Calder mobile: Saché

Two more recent names are Max Ernst and Alexander Calder. Max Ernst lived in Huismes about 8 k from Chinon, with American artist Dorothea Tanning who, amazingly died in January this year aged 101. Calder lived in Saché, which is a bit further away from us at around 22k. There's all sorts of information about him (and Ernst) on the web. I'll never forget the first time we drove through Saché, which is a sweet place but not overly special and there in the centre of the village was/is an enormous Calder mobile. The Chateau at Tours which we visited recently for another exhibition, staged a massive retrospective exhibition of Calder's work a few years ago, which included some filmed pieces of his amazing miniature circus and photos - including shots with his friend Max Ernst. Wonderful collection. 

Anyway if you want to see more, there's a lot of information about all three artists - Calder, Ernst and Tanning - on the web including youtube. It's worth having a look.