Getting About pt 3

Went to the cinema Thursday to see a series of short films, the earliest of which was made in 1902 and the 'newest' in 1925. French and American productions, which were mainly 20 minutes long, although one was around 14 minutes. Fabulous evening, organised by Cineplus in partnership with Le Carroi-Musée in Chinon. Met up with a friend of ours for a drink at the Café Français which is virtually next door to the cinema, then we wandered in for this special screening. They were all silent films, with the usual live music accompaniment having been recorded on top. Fascinating to watch. So pleased the screening was put together - a tribute really to exceptional creativity. Buster Keaton featured in one and was quite spell-binding. As was Charley Bowers, who  I hadn't come across before. Great evening.

Went into Chinon early this morning - Saturday - to find a spot to see the parade for the Marché à l'Ancienne.  The parade started about 10.30am. What an atmosphere. Loads of people about lining the route. Different communities within Chinon take part.

All sorts of modes of transport from times gone by. Horse drawn carriages, ancient tractors, old bicycles and a wonderful array of older cars.

Everyone in the parade dresses up in traditional costumes. There was a marching band, people demonstrating traditional dances.

All sorts of different stalls had been set up and extra eating places had been set up. Our regular vegetable stall who we see every week on the Thursday market as well as Saturday and Sunday mornings, was also there, in their usual spot. But for today they had decorated their stand and dressed up. It all looked great.







Le Marché à l'Ancienne is without doubt one of our favourite events. Chinon was buzzing. Met up with a load  of friends and stopped off for a coffee together. Really lovely start to the weekend.  

Photos - new camera.

Getting About pt2

Had a really good birthday party last Sunday. About 35 people. There were about a dozen who were away on holiday - always the way when you have birthday in August. Anyway this time a great mix of French, British and some American friends. Started at around 6 and finished about 11. We organised an apéro party. Mike and I made all the dishes, except for the birthday cake and extra dishes which some of our friends very kindly made. Went to the boulangerie in Place Mirabeau for my cake. Just felt the need for one. The first time since I was about 12. It was delicious - a gorgeous sponge cake, rectangular in shape with apricot and a little dark chocolate. Was soooo good. The two flavours went so well together. Fizzy from Château de l'Aulée, red from Pointeau, rosé from Couly. Very lucky with weather, so even though it wasn't the hottest evening, everyone was happy to be outside. Ended up with an impromptu singing session. Really pleased with it all.

Getting my head round the new camera (G16). Been getting some practise shots in over the last few days to try and discovering the best settings. Very odd to be working again with something that small and light, although it's by no means the smallest or the lightest compact. Interesting research to find a replacement for the one that was stolen. There were a couple of possibles that had marginally better reviews but didn't for me justify the "twice the price" tag. The G16 is an amazing piece of kit. Really delighted with it. 

Mike in the vegetable garden

Been accepted as a volunteer 'greeter' at the Chinon Tourism Office. Survived an interview in French. First time I've done something like that, so a bit nerve-wracking. It's a good idea which offers a personal perspective to someone who is visiting the town. You take them round over a two hour period. The scheme has just gone live on the website. It's not on a regular basis, just as and when someone books you. Will be interesting to see how it works.

The vegetable patch by the way isn't ours. Some local friends are on holiday and very kindly invited us go picking while they're away. So lots of tomatoes and beans. Lovely.

Getting About part 1

Went into Saumur this morning to visit the château. Only been there once before, which was ages ago. It's an odd place certainly on the inside, most unprepossessing. From the outside it is incredibly imposing as all châteaux were designed to be.  We decided to park down by the river and then walk up, which takes you up to panorama. It doesn't take that long, although in parts in quite steep. But the walk take you close alongside the buttresses and if you look up, the château really looms over you.

It was a lovely day today so the view over the town was very clear. I assume that Napoleon's decision to convert the château into a prison was what kept it from being destroyed but also guaranteed there was a lot of tinkering with the structure. It's very noticeable when you get inside. While a lot of money is being spent on the building there's unfortunately no cohesion inside the building and it's totally lacking in atmosphere. Still glad we went though.

On the way back we stopped off on the spur of the moment at Candes Saint Martin. Incredibly picturesque place that we often taken first-time visitors to see, sitting as it does at the confluence of the Loire and Vienne. This time we stopped for a rekkie at the  Enfin du Vin, a cave/bar which stocks fine wines in the Loire and also serves a small menu of regional gastronomic specialities. We'd heard of it a while ago, but as yet hadn't visited. We came into C.S.M around lunch time - couldn't have been better timing. Wine can be bought in quantity, by the bottle or like us, a glass of wine and a plate of . . . we chose a trilogy of superb rillettes, duck, rabbit and beef, but there's also fish and cheese options, individually or plates to share.  Enfin du Vin is perfectly positioned just off the centre of the village, with decent parking opposite and easy access by pathway down to the entrance which leads directly into the cave/bar, passing by a Barnum covered eating area. Outside and behind the building there's additional seating, with a proper track that locals, visitors, walkers, cyclists use. On the other side of the track is the river. A perfect stopping-off place - which was exactly what happened while we were there. Others arrived for a picnic, dropping into the cave for their wine and a few extra bits. For us it was the selection of white wines that was particularly interesting. We go to a few excellent local wine producers with white wine on their list. But our village is predominantly a red/rosé area. Jean-Louis Loup in Cravant always has a white wine producer at his porte-ouverte. She's wonderful, so we always buy there as she is quite a way off. So to have such a good selection close by at C.S.M. -  20 minutes - is ideal. Also gives us a chance to pick up a few names and visit the domaines.

On the way back stopped for a short walk. The road/route we were one isn't one we take very often, so don't know it well, and can't be precise about where we were. Hadn't realised there was a lake within a forest glade and a walk round.  Light was lovely. It's used as a picnic spot and there also wooden seats scattered round the edge of the lake. No one else there at the time though.

Some traditional boats were moored. But from the look of them and the algae that had set up home on the bows, they'd been abandoned to rot in the water. Great reflections.

The sunlight through the trees was gorgeous as well. We'd almost finished the 'circuit' when we spotted a fallen and now dead bit of branch and leaves. Nothing special about it, other than the sunlight had formed a natural spotlight, with the trees all around creating natural vignetting and a perfectly framed shot for me.

Just about recovered!!

La Semellerie

What a week! We've had a brilliant time! The day after the Marché Mediéval our friends Angie and Mark arrived by train for a few days. Had a few things to catch up with during the day as we'd been out rather a lot, and then come the evening we headed over to the station at St. Pierre de Corps to collect them after their TGV ride from Paris. The first weekend in August France is on the move, with loads of people taking off on holiday. The roads can be a nightmare. Our neighbours left at 4am on the Saturday morning to drive down to the southern part of France. 19hours later they arrived. The trains were pretty packed for Angie and Mark as well.

Reflection at Islette

Monday morning, breakfast out in the garden, with freshly boiled eggs, courtesy of les poules next door, who we've been looking after this week. Then we headed over to go the gardens at La Chatonnière. We got there mid-morning and found an empty car park and everything shut up. Obviously closed. Quite odd. So we turned round and headed just a short way back up the road to the Château d'Islette instead. It is a magical place, which we'd visited for the first time earlier this year. So peaceful. Such a pleasure to wander round. Mark is a photography enthusiast as well, so the two of us were busy with our cameras. Good light for photos, great reflections and interesting textures.

On the way back we called into Château de l'Aulée for a wine tasting, which was terrific as always. Then drove to Leclerc in Chinon to pick up some bits and pieces, but also to visit Domaine Couly who make lovely wines and whose chai is just over the road from Leclerc. There's also an interesting art exhibition on at the moment. Eventually we got back home,  relaxed a bit before dinner and then went for a walk round the village before the light disappeared completely.

Grapes at Noblaie

Tuesday morning we went across the bridge in Chinon to visit Domaine Noblaie. It is such a lovely place and yet more delicious wines. We tried the range which as always was very good. The surprise however was the fizzy. Mon Ange has such a delicate colour, a pale apricot, and the flavour! Just heavenly. 

Later in the afternoon we headed over to Chateau de Montsoreau. A once seen not forgotten experience. At least that's how we view it, although we have heard since from some American friends that some of their friends found it boring. J'étais en rester baba! New phrase I've learnt with an opportunity to use it. I was flabbergasted. It is a gentle place - no whizzes or bangs or anything fast moving, hamburgers or popcorn. So if these factors are the priority,  the chateau wouldn't be a good choice. But for those willing to take a little time, to look closely and let their imaginations work, then it's a lovely place to visit. 

model boats

The chateau has the Loire as it's theme, so the mood and pace is that of the river.  Wonderful constructed models, simply but effectively presented. The static fleet of boats  greets you on entering the exhibition.  Using special mesh as the Loire, carefully positioned lighting and a few well-chosen sound effects, you can watch the boats  'sail through the seasons'. Quite fascinating. From there you gradually wander through the different rooms of the chateau, each of which has something specific to convey about life on or by the river. There was an additional exhibition - a superb slide presentation, that explained the history of the building, again with clever use of lighting. We walked up to the top of the tower and then outside, from where you have great views across the plains. Angie and Mark just loved it and so did we. 

Dinner that evening was over in Turquant, a village just a short drive from Montsoreau. We'd thought a visit there would be fun - a troglodyte village, which we've come to know well. A very active community in Turquant with a strong creative heart. This time we were over there for the Marché Nocturne. Great atmosphere, a lovely for a walk round. We had dinner at the Bistroglo. Have to admit to being a little disappointed. The team had changed including the chef, who had previously been wonderful and imaginative. This time although quite good, the food was less interesting. We'll have to try and find out what's happened.

Villandry colours

Wednesday we went to Villandry, fortunately in the morning. Best decision. Weather-wise it was an unpredictable day. But we got the timing right. So although rather grey, the rain didn't start until we were near the end of our visit. There weren't too many people at first but by the time we left, there was a long queue for entry, and all waiting in the rain. Villandry is a wonderful place to go to. Doesn't matter what time of year, there's always something to enjoy. Being there in August was a first for us. In the past we've either been in the UK or we have just preferred not to go at the height of the tourist season. But we have learnt in fact, that no matter how many people are there, Villandry never feels crowded. It somehow manages to absorb the numbers. That evening we went out for dinner at La Part des Anges. Small but perfectly formed, the restaurant has quickly acquired an excellent reputation. We so enjoy going there. Very good wine list, limited, but their selection is impeccable. We enjoyed a bottle of Mon Ange there. Knew they had Noblaie wines, but the fizzy was an extra treat. With dinner we had a gorgeous 2011 Nicolas Grosbois red, as fabulous as the meal. Going back again to La Part des Anges shortly. Went for a walk in Chinon before driving home, initially up in the lift which brought us out near the Forteresse and gave us a good view over the town at night. A very pleasant ending to a very good day.

Thursday we were in early to Chinon for breakfast and a walk round the market. Managed to get the shopping done. Amazing tomatoes- deep brown red, green, orange, yellow. Got some of each, a fresh bunch of basil, delicious mozerella, then home for  lunch. Never had tomatoes like that. Each one completely different and mouth-watering. The yellow tomato cut like a peach. After that we headed off to St. Pierre de Corps so that Angie and Mark could catch the TGV to Paris and then the Eurostar. Had such a good time together. Just went too fast. Hopefully meeting up at Christmas. The chickens by the way provided a wonderful supply of eggs. Three chickens, three eggs each day. Bravo les poules! That evening we were at the cinema in Chinon to see a Jacques Tati film - Traffic. First saw it back in the 70s, in a cinema in East Finchley. There was a lot of wrangling over rights from what we can find out, so the DVD only became available in the last couple of years. Good to see it again on the big screen. There's an open air screening of a Tati film on Saturday night over at the guinguette in Chinon. Fingers crossed the weather is kind.

Friday morning into Chinon to the hairdresser. Terrible weather. We were due back into Chinon that afternoon for a concert at St. Etienne. Fauré's Requiem was being performed amongst other things. Got there around 2pm. Unbelievable rain, thunder and lightening. Stayed in the car until the last possible moment and then decide to leg it to the church, which should have been an easy run, as it's straight up the road from the car park. Umbrellas were absolutely useless. With a couple of seconds we were completely soaked through, so had to go home. Great shame. That evening we were round for dinner with Patrick and Nadia Lambert, an excellent wine producer in Cravant, along with American friends from Seuilly, which is over on the other side of Chinon. Terrific evening. We were so spoilt with the wines, including an 1985 red. Stunning stuff. 

Saturday we were at a wedding of the son of neighbours. An afternoon affair starting around 4.30pm. They were so so lucky with the weather. Absolutely perfect. We were there  for the service and a drink afterwards. The bride arrived in a gorgeous horse-drawn carriage. Great dress. She looked super. Traditional service ending with the Lord's Prayer in French - a first for us.  All the guests then left and waited outside. As the bride and groom came out confetti was thrown, soap bubbles blown and pigeons released. It was by now early evening. The sun was low, gorgeous light, and the drinks reception had been set right by the river. Couldn't have been more perfect. An idyllic scene. Most delicious fizzy and canapés. Superbly done. Quite a few of our immediate neighbours from Cravant were there. We'd taken Jacqueline and Norbert over as well. Our mayor arrived and his parents The first time we'd met, although they said they'd heard lots about us. All good apparently. phew! Delightful couple.  Had a really good chat to them. There were a couple of other Cravant councillors there as well. Such a gorgeous occasion in every way. We felt very priviledged to have been included. Back to Cravant late evening, by which time the chickens had put themselves to bed and were fast asleep. All I had to do was shut their gate. Which bodes the question, do chickens dream? Apparently they do.

All sorts of stuff!

It's been one of those weeks! Supper parties, apéro parties, dinner parties. We've friends arriving tonight who we haven't seen since last autumn. Keeping fingers crossed the weather is decent for them. Various things in the pipeline to suit all possibilities. 

Currently on chicken and cat minding duty for our neighbours who took off on holiday yesterday. 19 hours it took them to get to the family, I think in the Pyrenees. The first weekend in August in France of course, everyone en route. Even so, they and the children must have been exhausted. Mike came with me to help. The cat was fine although a bit sulky. Had a bit of food and a cuddle on the sofa. Although this afternoon decidedly stand-offish and sleeping under the car.  Then we headed round the back to the chickens. We must have been later than they were used to this morning, because they were all up the front end of the hen house waiting to be let out. Our instructions were let them out and then throw their seed around, so they'd be distracted.  We could then get back up the driveway, without being followed and shut the gate. Just three chickens - who are very beautiful.

They shot out of the pen, eyeing up the seed bowl in my hand. I threw seed in every direction.They went beserk, charging about all over the place, then coming back to me and demanding more food. There is something about a chicken running flat out that is just so funny. It's a bit like a dog with a ball. Throw, find, take back. . . "Do it again, do it again". In the end I was running about as much as they were.  Come bed-time this evening, would they go back in the hen-house! Talk about an independent streak.  Mike was almost crying with laughter. Finally however they were shut up for the night. Very pleased to report that we now have five fresh eggs.

Went to a mediterranean dinner party on Thursday. Took some sunflower shots on the way over. Everyone brought a dish, all worked out in advance, so there were no clashes. Sumptous is probably the best way to describe it. Really good fun and again, we were so lucky to be able to spend the whole evening outside. Bit of singing. Bit of dancing. Got in around midnight. Had friends from Tavant round for supper here Friday night. Hadn't seen them for a while. We've all been so busy and they've been away a lot, so finding a date has proved impossible, until this last week. We were able to be outside, which was so lovely, and till about 11pm.  We're over the road with neighbours for an apéro last night with our neighbours Jacqueline and Norbert at the home of our new neighbours Monique and daughter Sarah, who moved in earlier this year. Such a great sense of humour the pair of them. They were able to come to the road party, so have at least met everyone in the road.

Friend  Elizabeth on the left

 Yesterday morning, Saturday, we went into Chinon. A few basics to pick up, but it was also the annual Marché Mediéval. Got there in time for the parade, in which one of our friends was taking part, riding her horse. Had a wander around and then met up with some other friends for coffee. Today, Sunday, has been a bit of a catch-up day. Really nice just being able to potter about. Keeping fingers crossed the TGV is running on time for our friends.

Holey bread and runny jam

Breakfasts can be so messy. The other morning, delicious conserve made by a local friend found the hole in the middle of Mike's piece of toasted pain, made a dash for it, and landed back on the plate from where the whole saga had begun. The conserve was the same colour as our chairs.  Thank goodness I don't have the same trouble with marmite.

Can't quite get my head round we're almost at the end of July. Summer seems to be flying past. We were out for another apéro with a neighbour in Cravant. First time we'd been round. We have a mutual friend and it was through her that we originally met. Lovely evening, sitting outside till about 11.30 discussing theatre, language, Shakespeare, Marguerite Duras amongst other things. Very interesting conversation. 

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Chinon at night

Last night, Saturday, we were in Chinon for Les Nuits Croisées - a two-night affair for which various light and sound installations had been set up at key sites around the town. It started both nights at around 9.30pm and went on till 1.30 in the morning. We met up with some friends for a drink, were joined by some other and kept bumping into people we knew. This event seemed to have really captured the imagination and brought lots of  people into town. Chinon was buzzing. Great atmosphere.

The main lift in Chinon which links the main part of the town with the upper part and La Forteresse had a light and sound installation bouncing of the walls, synchronised to the movement of the lift itself.  Various statues and fountains around town had been lit up

Inside La Forteresse

La Forteresse itself was quite magical. Loads of candles and different types of lanterns had been lit and positioned on or alongside the main path to the entrance. Very simple but effective. And the inside was beautifully lit up. Quite dramatic. A lot of photographers about understandably. 



At Saint Mexme, where we often go for concerts and light and sound installation had been set-up on the stage which was in part noise activated by spectators. You can imagine the clapping and stamping going on, which created all sorts of crazy patterns. 

L'Ecrin

We ended up at the L'Ecrin building where one of our Anglo/French groups is based. The ground floor area, which generally is used as an exhibition and boutique space had now been rigged up with an underwater light and sound installation. Very effective.

There's a grasshopper in the lampshade!

Hadn't realised that our late morning breakfast was being scrutinised, until we started tidying up. How the baby grasshopper got there - no idea. Being so hot, our big doors and shutters are in ajar mode - hooked into position - during the day. We close the doors at night, but leave the shutters half open. So at some point, he - I'm saying he, but it could have been she, although how you tell the difference, I've no idea -  got inside the house, and then jumped his or her way on to our dining table and then legged it into the underside of the light fitting that hangs over the top. Quite a feat! 

Just about recovered from the weekend. Thank goodness we weren't going anywhere on Monday. Having had a crazy day Saturday as featured in the last blog, we were on Sunday,  meant to be out for the whole day and evening with neighbours for various things over at Avon les Roches. So tired Sunday morning, we called off the day-time stuff and went over to meet everyone for the evening - a dinner in the salle de fête. Went with neighbours - Jacqueline and Norbert, their friends Janette and Jackie who we now know pretty well and who live in Avon.L.R. and some of their family whom I'm FB friend with. Their son Ludo is an excellent chef and runs a very successful catering business. The whole evening was organised by another friend Pierrot and his band of volunteers. We've been to one of these dinners before.  Extremely well organised and presented and the dinner itself was superb. Not sure what time we left, but then we all went back to Janette and Jackie's house.  Hilarious. Pierrot started singing increasingly risqué French songs. We were crying with laughter. Got in around 1am.

Out for supper last night over at Lerné. Felt very honoured to be included. Lovely people, who we've come to know well. About twenty minutes from us by car. Five french friends - nearly wrote hens then. Janine whose house we were in, Christine and Mike,  Elisabeth and Patrick, all of whom we've met through one of our anglo-french organisations/L'Ecrin and Elizabeth (British/fluent French speaker), who set up both L'Ecrin and another anglo-french organisation that we're involved with. 

Got to Janine's around 6.30pm. Sunflowers out everywhere on the way over. One of our favourite flowers. We stayed out in the garden for champagne apéros and later on, we went in the house for a delicious supper. Janine is a very keen and accomplished photographer, amongst other things, so there's a shared interest. Terrific evening in every way - people, conversation, food and the place - a lovely house and garden, which is large and has its own wood.  Wildlife seen on the way home this time was a small haul - one rat, one bat, one fox and a cat. Got home around midnight. No problems sleeping tonight! Ha!