Tales from Cravant

Tales from Cravant
A Cravant View

Sunday, August 10, 2014

Just about recovered!!

La Semellerie
What a week! We've had a brilliant time! The day after the Marché Mediéval our friends Angie and Mark arrived by train for a few days. Had a few things to catch up with during the day as we'd been out rather a lot, and then come the evening we headed over to the station at St. Pierre de Corps to collect them after their TGV ride from Paris. The first weekend in August France is on the move, with loads of people taking off on holiday. The roads can be a nightmare. Our neighbours left at 4am on the Saturday morning to drive down to the southern part of France. 19hours later they arrived. The trains were pretty packed for Angie and Mark as well.

Reflection at Islette
Monday morning, breakfast out in the garden, with freshly boiled eggs, courtesy of les poules next door, who we've been looking after this week. Then we headed over to go the gardens at La Chatonnière. We got there mid-morning and found an empty car park and everything shut up. Obviously closed. Quite odd. So we turned round and headed just a short way back up the road to the Château d'Islette instead. It is a magical place, which we'd visited for the first time earlier this year. So peaceful. Such a pleasure to wander round. Mark is a photography enthusiast as well, so the two of us were busy with our cameras. Good light for photos, great reflections and interesting textures.

On the way back we called into Château de l'Aulée for a wine tasting, which was terrific as always. Then drove to Leclerc in Chinon to pick up some bits and pieces, but also to visit Domaine Couly who make lovely wines and whose chai is just over the road from Leclerc. There's also an interesting art exhibition on at the moment. Eventually we got back home,  relaxed a bit before dinner and then went for a walk round the village before the light disappeared completely.


Grapes at Noblaie
Tuesday morning we went across the bridge in Chinon to visit Domaine Noblaie. It is such a lovely place and yet more delicious wines. We tried the range which as always was very good. The surprise however was the fizzy. Mon Ange has such a delicate colour, a pale apricot, and the flavour! Just heavenly. 



Later in the afternoon we headed over to Chateau de Montsoreau. A once seen not forgotten experience. At least that's how we view it, although we have heard since from some American friends that some of their friends found it boring. J'étais en rester baba! New phrase I've learnt with an opportunity to use it. I was flabbergasted. It is a gentle place - no whizzes or bangs or anything fast moving, hamburgers or popcorn. So if these factors are the priority,  the chateau wouldn't be a good choice. But for those willing to take a little time, to look closely and let their imaginations work, then it's a lovely place to visit. 


model boats
The chateau has the Loire as it's theme, so the mood and pace is that of the river.  Wonderful constructed models, simply but effectively presented. The static fleet of boats  greets you on entering the exhibition.  Using special mesh as the Loire, carefully positioned lighting and a few well-chosen sound effects, you can watch the boats  'sail through the seasons'. Quite fascinating. From there you gradually wander through the different rooms of the chateau, each of which has something specific to convey about life on or by the river. There was an additional exhibition - a superb slide presentation, that explained the history of the building, again with clever use of lighting. We walked up to the top of the tower and then outside, from where you have great views across the plains. Angie and Mark just loved it and so did we. 

Dinner that evening was over in Turquant, a village just a short drive from Montsoreau. We'd thought a visit there would be fun - a troglodyte village, which we've come to know well. A very active community in Turquant with a strong creative heart. This time we were over there for the Marché Nocturne. Great atmosphere, a lovely for a walk round. We had dinner at the Bistroglo. Have to admit to being a little disappointed. The team had changed including the chef, who had previously been wonderful and imaginative. This time although quite good, the food was less interesting. We'll have to try and find out what's happened.


Villandry colours
Wednesday we went to Villandry, fortunately in the morning. Best decision. Weather-wise it was an unpredictable day. But we got the timing right. So although rather grey, the rain didn't start until we were near the end of our visit. There weren't too many people at first but by the time we left, there was a long queue for entry, and all waiting in the rain. Villandry is a wonderful place to go to. Doesn't matter what time of year, there's always something to enjoy. Being there in August was a first for us. In the past we've either been in the UK or we have just preferred not to go at the height of the tourist season. But we have learnt in fact, that no matter how many people are there, Villandry never feels crowded. It somehow manages to absorb the numbers. That evening we went out for dinner at La Part des Anges. Small but perfectly formed, the restaurant has quickly acquired an excellent reputation. We so enjoy going there. Very good wine list, limited, but their selection is impeccable. We enjoyed a bottle of Mon Ange there. Knew they had Noblaie wines, but the fizzy was an extra treat. With dinner we had a gorgeous 2011 Nicolas Grosbois red, as fabulous as the meal. Going back again to La Part des Anges shortly. Went for a walk in Chinon before driving home, initially up in the lift which brought us out near the Forteresse and gave us a good view over the town at night. A very pleasant ending to a very good day.


Thursday we were in early to Chinon for breakfast and a walk round the market. Managed to get the shopping done. Amazing tomatoes- deep brown red, green, orange, yellow. Got some of each, a fresh bunch of basil, delicious mozerella, then home for  lunch. Never had tomatoes like that. Each one completely different and mouth-watering. The yellow tomato cut like a peach. After that we headed off to St. Pierre de Corps so that Angie and Mark could catch the TGV to Paris and then the Eurostar. Had such a good time together. Just went too fast. Hopefully meeting up at Christmas. The chickens by the way provided a wonderful supply of eggs. Three chickens, three eggs each day. Bravo les poules! That evening we were at the cinema in Chinon to see a Jacques Tati film - Traffic. First saw it back in the 70s, in a cinema in East Finchley. There was a lot of wrangling over rights from what we can find out, so the DVD only became available in the last couple of years. Good to see it again on the big screen. There's an open air screening of a Tati film on Saturday night over at the guinguette in Chinon. Fingers crossed the weather is kind.

Friday morning into Chinon to the hairdresser. Terrible weather. We were due back into Chinon that afternoon for a concert at St. Etienne. Fauré's Requiem was being performed amongst other things. Got there around 2pm. Unbelievable rain, thunder and lightening. Stayed in the car until the last possible moment and then decide to leg it to the church, which should have been an easy run, as it's straight up the road from the car park. Umbrellas were absolutely useless. With a couple of seconds we were completely soaked through, so had to go home. Great shame. That evening we were round for dinner with Patrick and Nadia Lambert, an excellent wine producer in Cravant, along with American friends from Seuilly, which is over on the other side of Chinon. Terrific evening. We were so spoilt with the wines, including an 1985 red. Stunning stuff. 

Saturday we were at a wedding of the son of neighbours. An afternoon affair starting around 4.30pm. They were so so lucky with the weather. Absolutely perfect. We were there  for the service and a drink afterwards. The bride arrived in a gorgeous horse-drawn carriage. Great dress. She looked super. Traditional service ending with the Lord's Prayer in French - a first for us.  All the guests then left and waited outside. As the bride and groom came out confetti was thrown, soap bubbles blown and pigeons released. It was by now early evening. The sun was low, gorgeous light, and the drinks reception had been set right by the river. Couldn't have been more perfect. An idyllic scene. Most delicious fizzy and canapés. Superbly done. Quite a few of our immediate neighbours from Cravant were there. We'd taken Jacqueline and Norbert over as well. Our mayor arrived and his parents The first time we'd met, although they said they'd heard lots about us. All good apparently. phew! Delightful couple.  Had a really good chat to them. There were a couple of other Cravant councillors there as well. Such a gorgeous occasion in every way. We felt very priviledged to have been included. Back to Cravant late evening, by which time the chickens had put themselves to bed and were fast asleep. All I had to do was shut their gate. Which bodes the question, do chickens dream? Apparently they do.



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