Marketing Wine in France - The Big Question

If there was a choice of one item that immediately says France, at least in the minds of visitors, it would probably be wine.  Holiday makers and day-trippers are usually on the look-out for a wine bargain. Back in the UK of course there will be a good range of French wines on supermarket shelves, in wine depots and special wine stores. These days with the internet, it's easy to find wine from anywhere in the world and order it online direct from the merchant. There are wine tasting clubs and restaurants who organise special dinners around a particular wine estate, for regular diners - at a price of course. Then there are all those wine offers in magazines and newspapers, on the tv and through internet advertising. Think of all those promos around holiday periods. And what about M&S and their special £10 dinner with wine offer that appears regularly on t.v. Advertising and the promotion of alcohol from wines and malts through sherry, beers, ciders and everything else in between, is a regular feature in British culture.

In 1991, the Evin Law was introduced in France with the aim of regulating alcohol (and tobacco) advertising. It can be summarised as follows:

• no advertising should be targeted at young people
• all drinks over 1.2 per cent alcohol by volume are considered as alcoholic beverages.
• no advertising is allowed on television or in cinemas
• no sponsorship of cultural or sport events is permitted
• advertising is permitted only in the press for adults, on billboards2, on radio channels (under precise conditions), at special events or places such as wine fairs, wine museums. When advertising is permitted, its content is controlled.
• messages and images should refer only to the qualities of the products such as degree, origin, composition, means of production, patterns of consumption
• a health message must be included on each advertisement to the effect that ”l’abus d’alcool est dangereux pour la santé“ : alcohol abuse is dangerous for health.

Whilst places and media where advertising is authorised, are defined, the internet is not mentioned explicitly as permissible media. It was not fully developed in 1991 when the law was passed. Although modified in 2005, the internet was still not mentioned in the revised law. Its status therefore remains the same. This means, by omission, that it is illegal to advertise wine online in France. The result has been an increase in self-censorship, with companies unwilling to risk prosecution.

Looking at two of France's wine competitors - Spain and Italy - which are both big exporters of wine, the two countries have placed wine at the centre of their cultural, tourism and heritage drives.  This status has been written into the Iberian Law of 2013, thereby giving it a legal basis.

There are all sorts of initiatives and developments in France, which illustrate the cultural positioning of wine. The gastronomic meal of France for example has been on Unesco's World Heritage List since 2010, recognising the social practice of eating and drinking well. Tours a nearby large and vibrant town which we visit regularly, is one within a network labelled as 'gastronomic cities'. With those others, Tours is established as a verified reference point in the culture of the vine and wine. Since 2012, the University of Bourgogne has been offering a diploma in Wine, Culture and Wine Tourism. A fascinating initiative by the University Hospital in Clermont-Ferrand, which began in September last year, saw the opening of a wine bar as part of its palliative care programme.

The Evin Law and the restrictions that it has invoked must present real problems for viticulteurs. There are the additional questions about cost of marketing and promotion, should the law fundamentally change. Who would be able to afford it? What would happen to the smaller producers without the resources?

In this light, the success of St. Vincent, with its marriage of good food and good wine, is crucial for Cravant as well as the wider Chinon appellation.  We are following developments with interest.

Compagnie Hervé Koubi

Chinon has a multi-purpose venue in the centre of town called L'Espace Rabelais. We go there often and for different things. Some are annual or occasional events. Others, such as was the dance piece we saw the other night, are one-offs. Compagnie Hervé Koubi came to Chinon a couple of years ago, although we missed them then, and returned this year with a new piece last week, Ce que le jour doit à la nuit.

The all-male dance company of twelve from Algeria were simply stunning. Very physical in appearance and style, they were originally all 'street dancers', mostly Hip Hop, that the choreographer met on his travels. Their roots emerge from time to time in some of the movement, set to an eclectic mix of Bach, Hamza El Din & the Kronos Quartet and Sufi music. Quite mesmerising.

I've found some you tube clips of the company performing this new piece. They give an idea, but not a true impression of the complexity of the choreography, the technical and interpretative demands.  L'Espace Rabelais was full, which tells you everything really.   Fortunately at the end of the performance while Hervé Koubi was introducing the dancers individually, he explained that they have already started developing a new piece of choreography, which hopefully will be coming to Chinon in 2017. Fingers are crossed!

St.Vincent-celebrating in style

Ready for St.Vincent-Cravant 2015

So much for N.Y. resolutions.Started this ten days ago and then got distracted. Anyway we've been to a few parties lately. Or to be more precise a few St. Vincent celebrations. Cravant has excelled itself, resulting in some superb publicity.

It's probably about ten or twelve years ago, that we went to our very first St.Vincent. Since then, we've been going alternate years up until this year, when we managed two. Cravant our own village was the first, which is always held in January and the second, a week later, was in the salle de fête in Île de Bouchard, which is just up the road from us.

This year, Cravant achieved pole position in France, for the largest village party celebrating St Vincent-the patron Saint of wine-producers. It is an extraordinary achievement, resulting from years of consistently high-standards, hard work and determination.

Our introduction to St.Vincent took place in a large marquee which at the time was erected behind the salle de fête in the centre of the village. We didn't have our house then, but were staying with British friends who had a holiday home the other side of the village. Being Londoners with varying connections, we were used to large-scale catering and prestigious events, so the idea of St.Vincent was in our minds just another 'party'. We hadn't reckoned on being blown away by the quality, the efficiency, the professionalism and what we now know as being integral to this community's life, the conviviality.

That year there were 600 people. A wooden floor had been installed and heating as St.Vincent in Cravant, always on takes place on the last Saturday in January each year. The tables were laid up for silver service and looked fabulous. There was a stage area for announcements and presentations. I suppose then we were paying around €50 p.p. for an event that  started at midday and finished in the early hours of the morning, and was inclusive of everything.

Fast forward to 2015. We're sitting in a huge marquee that sits 1600 quite comfortably, floor, heating, once again beautifully laid out. Alongside there is another marquee that houses the catering and serving teams which this year totals seventy people. Tickets were €84. We hadn't been sure if this number of people would work, but from our point of view, it was once again delicious.- a six course meal very well presented, with special wines, a tombola and entertainment. The meal finished around 8.30, then as per usual everyone left - for a wine tasting. Coaches had been laid on to transport people round the five wine producers. We walked to two nearby ones with neighbours and spent some time at Philippe Pion's Domaine des Quatre Vents. Makes lovely wine and there were lots of people there that we knew. So we pretty much stayed put. Eventually we wandered back to the marquee for some dancing. Think we got in around 2am.

Numbers of out of region visitors are increasing. We and our neighbours certainly weren't aware of that many locals. For Cravant it is now well established and has acquired a very good reputation. Apparently at least 200 people had to be turned away. Whether or not the numbers will be increased again, we don't as yet know. But there seems to be two trains of thought. One to keep it to 1600 and the other to go for 2000+. The problem with events like this is that the cost of them doesn't increase neatly across the event as a whole. There seem to be the same numbers of sponsors. Around 35. So there is a question as to what is going to happen next. Hopefully we'll discover more at the A.G.M.

I should add that St. Vincent at Île de Bouchard was brilliant and also the first time we'd been. There was a Mass to begin with, but afterwards everyone met at Panzoult in the huge cave which overlooks the village. It's an amazing place, which we visit at least once a year but always on May 1 for the annual Foire au vins. There were some prayers, speeches and an apéro or two, before we drove the short distance to the salle de fête in Île de Bouchard. We were with neighbours again and mutual friends. Probably about 400 people. Beautifully laid out. The same chef and team as at Cravant, although obviously smaller. Wonderful atmosphere. Lots of local people who were there to have a wonderful time. And we all did. Singing, dancing, sometimes on chairs and on the tables.  Loved it.
Hopefully we'll go again next year.