Travels in the Midi-Pyrénées

We squeezed in a break last week - taking advantage of the Indian summer and enjoying some of the autumn colours which are gradually covering the landscape. We had a really great time. It's been ages since we've done something like that - the equivalent of a long weekend, which was usually all we could manage when we were working.  We chose the Lot region, which is outstandingly beautiful and dramatic. Now we've seen some of it for ourselves. It is fascinating.

We weren't sure where we wanted to stay. Visiting touristy places is one thing, but staying in the middle of them is something else. Given that it was the last week of October and also of the school holidays, we imagined there'd be quite a lot of people around. So we looked for somewhere that was a bit different but still gave us access to all the must-sees in the area. Luckily for us we found a gem. Moulin de LaTreille. Fi and Giles Stonor have been lovingly restoring the 13th century watermill, originally built by Cistercian monks, which is a family home as well as a business. The whole family including son Felix is a delight. They are exceptional hosts.

Moulin de LaTreille is a stunning property that we found through Alastair Sawday. It is surrounded by meadows, woodland, magnificent cliffs and has the river Ouysse running through it. LaTreille makes its own electricity from the power of the water, so as well as a unique building and location, there is also the lifestyle which weaves a truly meditative magic. Initially we went walking around the property itself as the site is quite extensive, but then went further afield to places such as Rocamadour and Saint Cirq Lapopie. We also visited the next mill up the river which is a fortified mill-house and these days a museum. It has an operational water-powered flour-mill, which still makes its own flour.

Moulin Fortifié de Cougnaguet is 14th century and classified as a historic monument since the 20s. It wasn't very far away from where we were staying and the drive treated us to some wonderful views. An amazing place. Extremely well maintained and the day we went the wife of the owner was there as our guide. Great fun and very knowledgeable. We were the only visitors so had a very personalised tour. The mill was first sold in the late 1700s and all the owners since have come from the local area.  The website is excellent and there's a super video which is definitely worth a look. In French, but nonetheless interesting to look at. And to anyone who watches it, yes, we had a drop of the hard stuff ourselves as a parting gesture. Phew. Strong but good.

As for food and wine of the region, everything we had was excellent, Fi's cooking, dinner at Le Petit Relais (which is at the top of the 2k track that leads to the Moulin de LaTreille) and  Les Vieilles Tours, about a twenty minute drive away. Both are hotel restaurants, but with very different styles. It was also interesting for us to taste a different wine grape from the Cabernet Franc that is used here in the Chinon Appellation. We were of course in the great region of Cahors. So delicious wines were not hard to find.

Hopefully we can go back next year. Late October is a good time to go. There are places nearby which we didn't get to. So plenty to explore. May be we can work out a two-centre break. All sorts of possibilities. Anyway we had a great time. And if anyone fancies a visit to the Lot and wants a recommendation for somewhere to stay, try Moulin de LaTreille.