Look after the pennies and the pounds will take care of themselves

A letter arrived from the tax office (British) the other morning. Not sure how much it cost to send first class to France. But someone had very kindly written to say I'd paid too much tax and would be reimbursed, meaning all 27p of it. Are they likely to send it by cheque?

However it arrives, I am going to take care of these pennies. Because I'm not sure it's possible to buy anything with that  sum these days. One third of an expresso sized coffee (Chinon prices) perhaps. A quarter of our regular bread - tradition/Parisse Céréale.  So I might as well save it and then if the proverb is really true, it will turn into pounds, and then I buy something really useful. How long will that take I wonder? If I keep it simple and aim for a packet of Maltesers, well - could be next year!

So a memorable moment in an already excellent week which included the theatre visit over at Crissay (previous blog) my birthday with lunch out at Sazilly, dinner in Chinon with friends at L'Ardoise (which doesn't have a website) several apéro parties and last night, dinner over in Turquant - home to Carole Noby, which is a good enough excuse to drive over, if of course an excuse is needed.

Mention the name Turquant to Mike and he develops a twitch, as it always involves visiting Carole. The 'excuse' this time was to get one of her small change purses as my birthday present. Having trained and worked for Hermes, Carole's got a lot of contacts. But she was telling us about the difficulty she's having sourcing quality leather from France and across Europe, and on which Carole relies heavily, to show off her exceptional skills. From the smallest key ring to the biggest bag, everything in the boutique is beautifully made from the best leather. So we really hope there's a solution for her. 

Last night however we were over in Turquant for the last of the village Tuesday soirées, which happen every week from mid-July to the end of August. Thought we'd have dinner over there. There's a resto called L'Hélianthe ,which we've been to a few times, but last night we tried the Le Bistroglo. Totally different experience, simple but fresh and delicious. Turned up having booked a table, to find Carole having dinner there. Quick chat as you do, then we wandered over to our table. It turns out that the chef is Bernard Noby  - so family - and last night Carole was working there, which was just as well, as it was packed. There's limited space inside, plenty of tables outside, with the musicians pretty much in the middle of it all. So basically brilliant. Had a fantastic meal and evening.

And by the way, my purse is just great!

 

A new career?

Do I really want to undertake intensive training for marine personnel? Hm. An interesting email to receive, out of the blue. That little box about sharing my details which I religiously  mark 'No', has clearly gone the way of everything else and been ignored. Ah well. I did spend a second or two trying to imagine myself in flippers, wetsuit, goggles with air tank, courageously back flipping over the side of a boat, to embark on a hazardous adventure. Girl's Own magazine, here I come. Couldn't convince myself it was the right thing for me. So thanks for the offer, but sadly I have to decline and stay in Cravant. Life here is far too enjoyable.

We were over in Crissay last night, which is just up the road from us, for an amateur production by the village drama group, Theatre de Manse. Gare des Affectés is a series of texts, written independently by Louis Calaferte (a French novelist 1928-1994) and Jean Tardieu (writer for French radio and a dramatist). They were then stitched together, (presumably by the director) to make a complete play, which takes place in a railway station. Great idea and a perfect setting for meeting multiple characters. Some worked there and observed all the comings and goings. Others were in transit. It's a piece about meetings and separations and proved to be a very insightful and entertaining piece of work.

The play was performed outside in the courtyard of the Chateau at Crissay. Started around 10pm and from what we could tell, was completely sold out. There were some excellent performances. Really enjoyed it and were delighted to discover that Theatre de Manse even existed. Only recently heard about the company from some friends in the village who gave us a leaflet about the show. They celebrate their thirtieth anniversary next year. So now we know Theatre de Manse is there - we'll be going regularly. 

Praise and controversy

From time to time you come across an individual who leaves you wondering what everything is about; who challenges your perceptions on major issues, usually things that you've only seen from a safe distance, on tv or read about in the paper,  through their own attitudes and behaviour.

Jacques Vergès one of the most controversial French-Algerian lawyers of the last century died yesterday, in Paris. There are many articles and features about him in the French media today. He became famous in the 1950s as an anti-colonial communist and then assumed the role of defence lawyer for themselves some of the most controversial figures of our times - left wing and right wing terrorists,  the former Khmer Rouge head of state, Carlos the Jackal, Holocaust denier Roger Garaudy, Klaus Barbi - Nazi war criminal. It's an extraordinary life and career and a deeply unsettling one.

Double Trouble

Every year on August 15, Pleucadeuc in Brittany hosts a festival day for twins and triplets and quadruplets, who mostly arrive in identical outfits. It's been running for twenty years and attracts siblings and their families from all over the world. Even the mayor of the village has twin daughters.  Other countries and continents see something similar happening - Ireland, Poland, Germany, Australia, the South Pacific and Asia, Nigeria and Ghana, all have twins festival days. The biggest one claims to be in America. Of course in Twinsburg - Idaho. Except their celebration lasts for three days, over the first full weekend in August. There's even a Twins Festival page on FB

As an only child this is quite fascinating and also a bit disappointing. The 'only child music festival', the 'only child wine festival', the 'only child cruises to the Caribbean', sound quite  grim. However, Twin Music Festivals and Twin Wine Festivals sound great and do take place. The biggest Twin Festival in the Southern Hemisphere is apparently in Melbourne and the biggest in Latin America is in Mexico. A couple of rather nice destinations. The Montreal Comedy Festival even seems to include a parade of twins - a parade for the 'only child' just doesn't cut it.  My godson who lives in Canada has identical twin daughters. Not sure what the provision is there for twin anything. There's an organisation in the UK called Twins UK which provides all sorts of useful links for twins, triplets and quadruplets.

There are also conventions. For example 'Triplets in Charm City' - meaning Baltimore - was held in July this year. More flippantly, triplets made it into one of our favourite animations - The Triplets of Belleville/Belleville Rendez-vous.

This all may sound a bit tongue-in-cheek. But the reality of having organisations who cater for this market, I would imagine for the families who look for and need their services, is an absolute god-send, as well as good business.

A few surprises

We met up with a friend of ours Sylvie for coffee last Saturday morning in Chinon. She's a really lovely person and we enjoy each other's company. Fairly recently we discovered that Sylvie's father was a greatly respected French photographer and also, very sadly, that he had died last year. I'd emailed to Sylvie about him and she filled us in a little bit in her reply, including his website details. Over coffee we spoke more about him and his work. It's a fascinating story and so I asked Sylvie if she was happy for me include her father in a blog.

Fernand Michaud's website the first thing we noticed was his involvement with the performance arts, which have long been of great importance to us. His images include  shots of Pina Bausch and company, various production shots at La Comédie Française - an important venue in Paris and portraits of other master craftsmen. To name a few: Merce Cunningham,Vittorio Grassman, André Malraux, Marcel Marceau and Duke Ellington. In total contrast there are wonderful images of the human form and the Brenne, a magnificent natural park in the Indre region. Clearly an artistic eye and mind, resulting in beautiful and memorable work.

The camera came along yesterday when we celebrated a friend's birthday. There was to be a dinner in the evening which he knew about, but the first part of the afternoon was a surprise. We all arrived at the house sharp at four in the afternoon. Overwhelming support for the birthday boy to be blindfolded and then we took off for a quick drive over the hill, to arrive at a Les Attelages de Cuzay. 

We've see these calèches or calashes in Chinon. In all likelihood they belonged to this company who mentioned they were often over our way. There were fourteen of us in all, pulled by two beautiful horses. Ten in the front and four in smaller trailer style calèche, that was attached at the back. Calèches were a mode of transport in the 18th century. Ours of course were geared for modern roads, so there were brake lights and a rearview mirror. 

What fun! Very comfortable to travel in and of course we moved along at a luxuriously slow pace. Never been on one of these before. But it proved a great way to see the landscape as we steadily made our way round through villages and hamlets. Attracted plenty of interest from locals as we rode/drove by. Only once did we need to get on to a busy main road, but it was a quick visit before turning off and getting back into country lanes. The route took about an hour and a half and was simply a joy. 

We then went back to the birthday house. A table had been laid up outside. So fizzy was opened. Plenty of chatter and laughter. A gorgeous dinner, rounded off with some fireworks and a few Irish songs. Brilliant.

Un marché gourmand

Food and wine with everything. That's pretty much how it is here. Some events include eats and drinks from the start which are advertised and included in the price. Others such as the two early music concerts we went to recently, started off with a general announcement during which we were all invited to stay on after that evening's performance,  for a 'goodwill' drink with nibbles. So having enjoyed a wonderful concert last Thursday, we all walked round the corner from the church where it was held to the mairie, to find a table laid up with wine, soft drinks and rillettes - all courtesy of the mayor and village of Seuilly, where we spent a good hour chatting to fellow audience members, meeting the artists, and having a really lovely and very social time. A similar thing was offered after the Sunday afternoon concert at Chateau Coudray-Montpensier, only we had to get back for drinks at home with neighbours, so didn't stay on.

Les Trois Moustachiers

This week we've been to two very different events involving food and wine. During the season a lot of local villages and towns organise events called either a Marché Gourmand or a Nocturne Gourmand. It's not something Cravant does. In the past we've been to Chinon's Nocturne Gourmand which transforms the town into a major eaterie, with not only the restaurants open, but the squares and side streets lined with food kiosks and trestle tables for punters.

On Tuesday evening we were over at Tavant, meeting up with various friends for their village Marché Gourmand. It takes place through the summer on the first and third Wednesdays of each month. A square near to Tavant church had been cordoned off to become a pedestrian zone housing all the different food outlets, who were cooking fresh dishes to order. Lines of trestle tables were laid out in the middle for visitors. We all tried something different to eat. Not knowing exactly what was going to happen, we'd already eaten something earlier in the day, so decided to share a lovely spicey prawn dish, which isn't something we'd normally go for. Wine was flowing as was the conversation. In the photo on the left is a newish friend Gunther whose lovely wife Claudie is also a photographer. We met them last year through one of our Anglo/French groups. The other two moustaches belong to locals Michel and Michel, who were with our group of friends. It was the first time we'd met. Had a long conversation with them on all sorts of different subjects. Really fun and really interesting. Great evening. It's the sort of event though that you really do need to go with friends, which of course we were able to do.

Last night Thursday, we went over to Saumur for a more touristy event and tasting at Ackerman. They make lovely sparkling and flat wines, although thanks to our friends Anne and Lyn, these days we shop nearer to home at Chateau de L'Aulée over at Azay le Rideau, who we both reckon supply some of the best fizzy and white wines around. From time to time we'll spend a day at Saumur. There's always has lots going on and it's an opportunity to visit one of our favourite restaurants La Gambetta. From Cravant Saumur is about an hour away. 

Ackerman had organised a tour along with an equestrian display, in their caves.  The site is huge. So the tour had been cleverly broken up into sections, interspersed with short entertainments by horses and riders, who entranced everyone with their agility, in what for them was a confined space. The riders were mother and young daughter, who as well as their riding skills brought their dance and circus skills into play, to create a really interesting series of performances. No good photos sadly. There were about sixty people in a tricky space. The one here I've tried to lighten up but then the colour distorts. But what it's showing are two riders in a particular part of the cave with an overhead installation. A very large area with all sorts of interesting designs in plastic. It was like an enormous fairy grotto. Afterwards we went back outside on to the front lawns, where apéros of white and pink fizzy were served with some tasty amuse bouches. Yet another lovely evening, which Mike had spotted purely by chance. Very pleased we went.

Beautiful venues

Chateau Coudray Montpensier - Seuilly

Last Sunday afternoon we were back in Seuilly. In fact we spent pretty much the whole of last weekend in Seuilly but  for different reasons and in different places. Saturday night was a triple decker birthday party for three American friends who all live in the village. First of all Moira - she and I cooked a vegetarian lunch together for one of our Anglo-French groups in Chinon. We've been over to her place for several superb BBQ's cooked by husband Chris. The other two birthdays belong to Steve and Tim, who are friends of Moira and Chris. We've met the boys at the BBQs several times. However the birthday party was held at Steve and Tim's place, which was also a bon voyage party for Moira and Chris who are returning to the States with their family for a while. All of them have bought large places in Seuilly.  Steve and Tim are here full time, whereas Moira and Chris with their brood of three teenagers, have spent one full year here getting established and working on their house. From now on they can only spend a maximum of six months here because of work, schools and the dog. The half and half life we know well. In our case we were travelling - just the two of us - from the other side of the channel. Easy stuff. Moira and Chris and family (including the dog who is a lovely black labrador), are travelling from the States. Hopefully this isn't going to prove exhausting. They love it in France.

Steve and Tim run a fabulous business - Loire Culinary Tours and Events. If you have a look at their site, you'll understand why a dinner party for seventy people, although no mean feat, was brilliantly staged. Tables were laid up outside in their garden with a magnificent view all round, in gorgeous early evening sunlight. Later, as the light started to fade, table lamps were lit. Lovely atmosphere with a mixture of French, Americans, Germans and just four British - Mike and I, and Lindsey and Bill, who like us have emmersed themselves in the French language and culture. It was the first time we met. Had a lot of fun with them (and the others on our table) so decided to meet for supper together at the end of next week. Steve, Chris, Tim and Moira really spoilt us all. Lots of work and preparation for them, but they could see how much we were all enjoying ourselves and what a great night we had together.

Sunday afternoon was a totally different affair - the final concert of the Seuilly Early French Music festival. We'd been to another in the series on Thursday evening with our friends who were visiting, Lesley and John. The musicians playing on Sunday were the same quartet we'd heard on Thursday. So we were really looking forward to it all, as we knew how good they were. The venue this time was the Chateau Coudray Montpensier, which is a privately owned chateau and well known around the local region. In fact we'd been able to see it very clearly from Steve and Tim's garden the night before. 

We were meeting a friend of ours at the chateau for a tour round the gardens prior to the concert, which was included in the ticket. The gardens and the chateau are being overhauled at the moment, but it's being done steadily and very carefully, so there was no disruption.  The concert was again fabulous but this time the musicians were joined by a young soprano. Just twenty-one she had a stunning voice, and effortlessly handled the technically complicated scoring. The structure of early music I find fascinating. All the instruments create a very delicate sound, but the scoring of intricate harmonies provide a full-bodied sound with great depth and quality of tone. We bumped into other music fans while we were there, who we've seen from time to time at different concerts round about. We had a  very interesting conversation with one particular couple who programme the season and artists for Les Musiques et Le Patrimoine, which we've recently started going to. They've now stopped for the summer and restart in September. We ended up discussing the complexities of programming this type of music, attracting audiences, funding, the politics etc. All of which we understand very well because of our careers in the arts in the UK and through contact with the Arts Council. There might be an expanse of water between our two countries, but the pros and cons are exactly the same. 

Crazy weather

Hard to believe - early August. Only 147 shopping days till Christmas. As yet not a single decoration in sight, anywhere. Lovely warm weather. Then last night we drove over to Turquant and found snow.  
The snowman is very cute, don't you think, in his scarf. He'd been positioned in front of a grotto, full of whacky sculptures and jewellery. Isn't it interesting what you can make with knitted plastic.? Try the link. It's a little slow, but you'll see the results of a great gang's efforts at knitting with plastic bags. We had an equally great time doing it. Hopefully my friend Sara-Jane, who was the instigator of this project, will see this blog. We still have a house in Bradford on Avon and will be back there in November for a flying visit.

We go to Turquant quite often. It's a lovely troglodyte village, where it so happens, that as well as a very good restaurant, one of my favourite leather design specialists (that's code for beautiful handbags) has her studio. Carole Noby. Not wishing to pressurize Mike, but just to mention my birthday is only eleven days time. Anyway last night, Turquant launched its Tuesday soirée programme, which takes place  through August. Something different each week. This time there was a huge crafts fair, with some fabulous pieces, live music, impromptu theatre, exhibitions and knitted snow. Loads of people and a great atmosphere. Will be going again in a few weeks time.




P.S. @9 August: spoke to soon. Check out link: http://www.openroadmedia.com/blog/2013-07-30/Christmas-in-July-for-Knitters

Fun with friends

Montsoreau - a view of the river

We've had a particularly good week. Began with some friends arriving - Leslie and John - for the first time last Wednesday evening (31 July) just for three days, on their way back to the UK. They'd been visiting the Luberon - generally regarded as one of the outstanding regions of France - so Cravant had a bit of a challenge on its hands. However we have our own particular blend of countryside, chateaux, vines and orchards with which to charm visitors.

The one thing that can make a difference is if you are staying with people who know the local area well. We've been getting around in the last five years since we moved into our house (5 years: Monday 5 August 2008 -13) and now of course that we're based here, there's more opportunity to explore events as well as places.

It helped of course that the weather was fabulous, so dinner here Wednesday night meant we could be outside for a little bit to enjoy the view of the valley which was bathed in evening sunlight - washed down with some local fizzy and wines of course! Thursday morning we went into Chinon for breakfast in the weekly market and to pick up a few provisions. The tourist season is in full swing now, which sounds a rather obvious thing to say. But truly it's only become really busy (as we've known it in previous years) in the last few weeks. It's been much slower this year. So Les and John's introduction to Chinon market was a good one - a real buzz, with plenty of people, stall holders and quality produce. Thursday evening we were back in Chinon for dinner at L'Ardoise which was lovely. Doesn't have a website though. We'd booked a table at the top, outside on their terrasse. Ideal for a very warm evening and then afterwards we wandered up to Saint Mexme for a jazz concert - a free gig, so of course it was packed. 

Friday morning we all went over to Fontevraud in the morning - early. Just love it over there. Fascinating place which keeps on evolving. In the afternoon we took in some wine tastings at Chateau de L'Aulée over at Azay le Rideau and locally at Angelliaume. Between them we had tastings of various white fizzies and flat white wines, rosé and red wines. Had an early-ish dinner and then headed over to Seuilly for a concert of early French music in the little church - Église Saint-Pierre. We have quite a few friends over there so are used to visiting. Seuilly also has an interesting history and the former Abbaye is now an exhibition space as well as a concert venue. But this visit to the church for a concert was a first for us as well, so a new experience that the four of us could share together. Absolutely fab! Four musicians - violin, flute, viola de gambe and clavichord. They were top flight. The violinist has two instruments one made in 1710 and the other in 1756. The quality of their playing was just superb. The programme included compositions by Couperin, Marais, Corelli and Leclair. Whether that Leclair is in any way related to today's Leclerc of supermarket fame - I have absolutely no idea. But I guess it's possible.

Jacques Grosbois with shades - vigneron

Saturday was Marché Médiévale day, so we were back into Chinon for the parade which began at 10.30am. The link here is to last year's blog which gives a brief write up about all the parades in Chinon, including this one. The town this year was packed from the very beginning. Lots of friends and neighbours were there so Les and John met some of the people we know here. It was also the day they were heading off to Honfleur, so in many ways it was a lovely finale to their visit.

Bread Alert

An astonishing figure - ten billion baguettes are sold in France every year. Not ten million, ten billion. I had no idea. Even so, there is such concern over falling levels in bread consumption, that the Observatoire du Pain - the bakers' and millers' lobby - have started a nationwide campaign. The average Frenchmen is now only eating half a baguette a day, whereas in the seventies it was a whole baguette. In the 1900s it was three baguettes a day. These days women eat a third less bread than men and young people apparently, thirty percent less than a decade ago. 

'Coucou, tu as pris le pain?' (Hi, have you picked up the bread?) started a couple of months ago in 130 cities, promoting bread as 'good for health, good for conversation, good for French civilisation and part of the traditional French meal. Certainly where we are, bread is always served with food and included in the price of the meal. Cravant still has its own boulangerie as does Panzoult the next-door village to us. In and around Chinon, there's at least seven boulangeries, along with a small Carrefour outlet in the centre of town that sells bread. Our big Leclerc on the outskirts has an in-house bakery offering a wide range of breads, but a small independent has just set up inside Leclerc as well, next to the restaurant and from what we've seen is doing good trade. Nationally however numbers of boulangeries are declining. France still has the most independent bakeries in the world - around 32,000 - but back in the fifties there was something in the region of 54,000.

Paris  holds a bread making competition every year, to select the city's best artisinal bread maker. The winner supplies the Élysée with bread for a year. This year, 152 baguette tastings later, Ridha Khadher carried off the prize, who left Tunisia twenty-four years ago as a teenager, to make bread in France. In May every year there is also a bread festival around the feast of Saint Honoré, the patron saint of bakers, during which different breads can be tasted. But also demonstrations are given and you can find out how to become a professional bread maker. It's not a job I would like. For a start the hours are unsociable.

There are two particular types of baguette - the 'ordinaire' and the 'tradition'. The two are very different. The distinction in part came about because of a government decree in 1993, that the bread of French tradition had to be made from flour, salt, water, leavening and no additives. So recent times have seen the emergence of artisanal bakers who are dedicated to excellence and tradition. The baguette ordinaire uses additives, a fast-rising process and mechanisation. It accounts for seventy five percent of bread sales in France and is incredibly cheap but relatively tasteless. 'The tradition' takes three to four hours from start to finish because of the very very slow fermentation process. As a result the contrast in taste, aroma and appearance greater. Also each tradition is made by hand. Even so given the lengthy process a tradition is only twenty cents more expensive than a baguette ordinaire.

We're up in Paris for a week in October. While we're out exploring there'll hopefully be a moment to the 9th arrondissement for a visit to Philippe Levin. A baker whose 'traditions' are so renowned thaton Sunday mornings, the queues for his bread often go round the block. He's been quoted as being a little disappointed with the Observatoire du Pain campaign, which he feels is an insipid as the inside of an ordinary baguette. He'd rather that bread is promoted as 'an object of pleasure' and that 'we should celebrate breads that make your tastebuds dance'. Yes indeed.