Well Tuesday 15th was definitely an odd day. That's the best way to describe it. Everything started off really well. Beautiful day. Lovely sunshine and quite mild. So off we went, beginning with a walk around, before getting on to the metro to head towards Le Marais. Somewhere on the metro, someone managed to steal my camera - my small point and shoot, which started me off on photography and my wallet, taking cash, bank cards, driving licence etc. It was so quick. Retraced our steps, even checked at the lost property, but knowing everything was zipped up, there was no way these things had disappeared by accident. So the police were notified, phonecalls made to my bank, which means that everything on the account is at least blocked. There'll be some things to sort out when we get back. I really loathe this sort of thing. Never stolen anything from anyone. However I'm not the first and sadly I won't be the last. And also sorry that I won't be able to post any photos.
Anyway after all the upheaval we tried to resurrect what was left of the day. Stopped off at a place for lunch, near to where we are staying. Terrific - L'Assiette à Carreaux. Not a big space but absolutely packed. Wonderful buzzy atmosphere with a really nice menu, either individual dishes off La Carte or there were a couple of options as Plat du Jour. After that we headed off to Le Marais an historically important district in the third and fourth arrondissements.
Paris was largely remodelled and modernised in the 19th century by architect Georges-Eugène Haussmann. Le Marais escaped. As a result you gain a very clear idea of what Paris was like before Haussmann arrived on the scene. Le Marais is a joy with its narrow streets and squares and residencies from the medieval and the Renaissance periods. These days it represents Paris at its contemporary best. A lot of the up and coming, galleries, restaurants and boutiques are found there, making Le Marais one of the most fascinating districts in the capital. It is home to a number of communities - arty types, gay and Jewish. Originally Le Marais was the aristocratic capital of Paris, but gradually they moved out and the area became actively commercial, attracting many Eastern Europeans from the Jewish community who helped build up Le Marais's reputation as a clothing centre. The synagogue was designed by Hector Guimard who also designed several Paris Metro stations.
Today we visited the Café Suedoise at the Swedish Institute, for afternoon tea. What a find! We tried two of their cakes - pear and walnut and courgette and ginger which was just out of this world. It was also surprisingly inexpensive. Then we wandered into other parts of the institute to look at an exhibition called Sens Dessus Dessous (Upside Down), an exhibition of illustration by some of Sweden's best. Some of Eva Lindström's work was on display. The link gives more information about her and the type of work she does. She has by all accounts been a reference point for younger illustrators, a number of whom were part of the same exhibition. One in particular intrigued. Emelie Östergren some of whose work had the heavy power associated with Paul Rega. Fascinating exhibition, which comes to an end very soon. We were lucky to find it.
So a good end to a strange start. Fingers crossed it stays that way.
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