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| 'Spot the Clanger' |
We get our eggs or have been getting them, from our cheese producer over at La Roche-Clermault who also has free-range chickens and eggs available. But as of a month or so ago, some very near neighbours (the next road) began selling their free-range chickens and eggs. So ever keen to support a village enterprise, we've started buying from them. Chicken and eggs were excellent.
Over time I've collected a pile of egg boxes (cardboard),
which have been sitting on the side in our kitchen, waiting to be taken round to our neighbour. Emilie, the neighbour with the eggs and chickens, in fact came round yesterday with some others for coffee, but it was pouring with rain so the egg boxes stayed put.
Quite fortuitous as it turned out.
It had been a pretty grey day today which had left us feeling slightly 'out of sorts' as grey wet days sometimes can do. Then early evening, the most amazing sunlight burst through and caught the egg boxes in a golden spotlight. Of course - out came the camera. It was a really fun exercise to try and take photos of cardboard egg boxes, starting with an obvious edge of boxes shot.
The light wasn't going to last very long, so I began moving the boxes around and finding more interesting angles and textures on the insides. I'm so used to the smooth outer appearance of an egg box, while the inside I don't really take a lot of interest in. It's just a piece of practical product design to hold an easily breakable item in place.
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| The 'Madonna' landscape |
But this afternoon with the help of some wonderful light and a macro lens, the rougher, lumpier inside of the egg boxes became a real landscape. Or several landscapes. Sometimes they took on a slightly 'lunar' appearance. Sometimes they were 'clanger-ish' and sometimes, 'Madonna-ish'.
The whole thing lasted about ten minutes.
Into Tours last weekend. We went primarily for an exhibition at the Château de Tours and for lunch with an Anglo/French group at La Maison Coté Sud. But to begin with the two of us were wandering around trying to get to know the city a little better. Our introduction to Tours was about four years ago with an annual event called L'Art au Quotidien - a big crafts fair - at the Vinci Centre that can take about 3000 people. We can't get to it this year, but the link is to the site, advertising this year's show. There are all sorts of different cultural events going on throughout the year, but the Vinci Centre also hosts major conferences. At present we mostly come in for exhibitions and special festivals, but Tours is also our connection to Paris via the TGV (Train à grande vitesse), which door to door, takes about two hours.
At present Tours is in a state of upheaval. A new road system is being installed involving trams, which began three years ago and won't be finished till September 2013. Travelling in by car therefore can be a bit of a trial. We go mid-week from Chinon by train, which is quick. But this time, being a Saturday when the trains are infrequent and stop early, we drove in. At 9.30am the roads were easy, no problems parking, but an hour later, phew - the traffic was just chockerblock.
Tours is the 'capital' of the Indre et Loire region. Historical and contemporary districts with their mixtures of architecture sit comfortably alongside each other. Side streets and squares are buzzing with cafés and restaurants. As well as a vibrant cultural life, it's a very good food produce centre. Tours like most places these days has larger stores, but it also has a great array of smaller shop fronts, which give it more character and individuality.
There are also two markets - one indoors and one outdoors. They're more or less next to each other and both cover large areas. Milling around with the Saturday shoppers was quite an experience. A lot of people were out. The markets are very well supported and the range of foods as well as the quality is exceptional. In my travels probably the only other one I've come across that is on a similar scale, is in Málaga, Spain. Cravant is slightly too far away for us to use Tours as a regular shopping centre. But we've both said that once we're here, we want to use it more often than we do. Perhaps that means the markets as well.
The Anglo/French group I mentioned is called English Connection. We weren't sure about the name at first, but there is a really good mix of French and English people. The group meets fairly regularly, probably once or twice a month. We share cultural events which generally are as useful as they are interesting. I'm not sure how many members there are, but they seem to be based more in Tours and its surrounding area. Occasionally events are in someone's home, or we meet for lunch, quite often somewhere new. This last Saturday we met at La Maison Coté Sud which was very good. Great atmosphere and busy! We were upstairs with a table for fourteen people. Then we headed off up to the Chateau de Tours which is well established as an exhibition venue. We'd come to see a photographic exhibition by Pierre Bourdieu. His link is in French but there are images which were taken during 1958 - 1961 when the French/Algerian conflict was in full swing. Every now and again and major power comes face to face with an aspect of its colonial past. This exhibition focussed on such a moment. The images were all in black and white and gripping in their simplicity. There is also a film, eventually released in 1974, having been banned since it was made in the 60s. It's called The Battle for Algiers. Quite superb and is regarded as one of the foremost commentaries on guerilla warfare. It's out on DVD and very much worth seeing.
There was also a smaller photographic exhibition by Norwegian artist Per Barclay at the chateau. Equally engrossing, the images were a series of optical illusions in industrial spaces, created through reflections using oil. If you go to the link and check under exhibitions there is some reference to the exhibition and some images. There are many similarities to the work of highly acclaimed British artist Richard Wilson, which personally I love.
The final exhibition of the day was in Chinon and yet another photographer, Arnaud Vareille.
The work on display concentrated on landscape and textures, but his portfolio is much wider. If you have a moment to look at the link you'll see just what he can do. His work is terrific.
We had a really brilliant day. It couldn't have been better. By the time we got home, we were both totally exhausted. At least I didn't have to cook anything!
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| HMS Paddington Bear |
We had some friends round last Thursday evening. Not for an apéro, which I've mentioned in a previous blog, but for what's known as an apéro dinatoire - a hybrid between an apéro and dinner. It's a 'sitting at the dinner table' arrangement, with lots of small bite sized savoury dishes, cheeses and if you want to, a small bite sized dessert, such as a macaron. I must remember to do a blog about macarons - those little mouthfuls of heavenly gooey almond meringue. Moving on . . .
We only met Jim and Francoise for the first time earlier this year and then again in July. We just clicked. They're such fun. He's English and Francoise is obviously French. They live in Tavant, about twenty minutes away from Cravant and - small world etc - they also have an apartment in Bath, which by train is about fifteen minutes away from us in Bradford on Avon. They'll be in the UK for Christmas and New Year, so we'll be getting together at some point. Anyway, we shared language duties, so switched between English and French and chatted about this and that. Somehow we got on to the fact that Mike and I both have a lot of Celt floating around in our family
histories. His family are from north of the border. Mine are from the
other side of the Irish Sea. Now there'll be a few of you, I don't doubt, who'll be thinking ' . . . aha! That explains everything'. Well don't be so sure. According to Francoise, I also have a touch of the Peruvian about me. It was the hair and face shape that convinced her.
If my friend Lesley Hayward is reading this blog, she will hopefully remember an exceptional evening in her house - circa the late 80s. We were all involved with an amateur drama group called The Hatch End Players (H.E.P.) and for this particular social event, a few of us put on a performance of Paddington Bear - when he first arrives from Peru and goes to live with the Browns. I always wondered why I was cast as Paddington. Now I know. Thanks Francoise. That really does explain everything!
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| on board |
We've reached the moment when the UK starts to gently filter back into our heads. On 31st October, Hallowe'en, we take the boat back to Portsmouth for not quite the last time. We're travelling on the Normandie which is our favourite boat in the Brittany Ferry fleet. It will probably be decorated with bats, pumpkins and other Hallowe'en paraphernalia. Just hope it doesn't creep into the dinner menu. Fricasée of bat doesn't appeal. Or maybe they'll have that for the children.
We're not seriously getting ready to go back, it's more a 're-engaging' with what we've got to do when we get there. In any case there's still another three weeks to go here and a lot is happening during this time.
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| New wine barrels |
Usually 'returning to the UK' means a car full of bags and boxes. But there's nothing really to take back to the UK this time except wine in various quantities - orders for friends, presents for others and a supply to cover Christmas and New Year. It's the first time ever we've thought of Christmas this early on. We're not into the business of '. . . it's September so let's start getting Christmas presents' or '. . . it's October let's start planning Christmas Day lunch'. Usually nothing happens with us until a couple of weeks before and the decorations never go up until a few days before. But out of necessity Christmas is on the radar. We're going back this time for a slightly longer stay in the UK as we've things to sort out in the house, and legalities to put into place - exciting things like Landlord Insurance, touch-up painting on doors and bannisters and loft clearing.
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| Cravant vines |
I'm starting a blog in French for friends and neighbours here while we're back in the UK. It will be good practice for me while we're away. One of the odd things about travelling backwards and forwards is the language changeover. My brain does the splits. I get so used to talking, writing and listening to French every day. And then suddenly it stops. But my brain doesn't adapt immediately so I go into a stuttering franglais mode. The number of times I catch myself answering the English phone in French. Eventually it settles down.
The funniest thing of all when we get back, and this happens in both houses, is that we simply can't remember where anything is. Or we think something is in one house when actually it's in the other. It takes another few days to find our way around. The kitchen remains the biggest challenge. I know perfectly well that all the drawers and cupboards in the French house are the automatic type, that gracefully glide shut with the gentlest of touches. I've known this for four years. The English kitchen doesn't have this system. I take out what I need, gently nudge the drawer back to close, turn round to do what I have to do, turn back and then get whacked on the shins. You'd think I'd have learnt by now!
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| Panorama at Cravant |
Anyway in the three weeks before I acquire a new set of bruises, we've got to finish cutting back the garden, summer and winter clothes need to be re-organised. There are some exhibitions and lunches with anglo-french groups coming up. Meetings, dinner parties, drinks parties, coffee mornings. Turquant is having a book festival and concert and there are couple of things over at Fontevraud. Then we go back to the UK and start all over again. We love every minute of it.
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| Troglodyte textures |
Ever fancied living in a cave? The route between Cravant and Saumur is littered with Troglodyte caves. How about 'the cavist's highway to the des-res of their dreams'. Ooh - yuk! Moving on. . .
A Swedish couple we know have been coming to Cravant once or twice a year for forty years, and live in a cave. It's spartan and equipped with the absolute essentials. They drive each time to Cravant and the journey takes about five days from Sweden. The last time we saw them, their son was getting married and they'd bought all the wine from the village for the celebrations. Their cave is well hidden and isn't easily found. In summer it's quite beautiful. Wild flowers everywhere, a stunning view over the plain of vines and poplar trees, and of course in the heat, the inside temperature is a steady cool. Must be blissful at that time of the year. They've rigged up an outdoor shower, with a slightly precarious gang-plank to cross to get to it, but it looks heavenly. They obviously must enjoy the life. It's a long way and a long time to be doing it, if not.
Chinon has had a troglodyte community in the past - high up and over-looking the town. The story is a sad one involving 'the excluded' in terms of social acceptability. At ground level the caves can still be clearly seen. We've walked along there to visit the deconsecrated church, Sainte Radegonde which is pretty much a ruin, but historically interesting with plenty of artefacts and from time to time hosts small exhibitions. It's an excellent walk. En route we passed the now empty and delapidated caves. Didn't know much of the story until some photos were temporarily installed - six photos of six families, outside the cave where each had lived.
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| Windmill at Turquant |
Heading west out of Chinon towards Saumur you'll come eventually to a village called Turquant - a Unesco heritage site, and a seemingly thriving troglodyte village that we visit quite often. Turquant is a lovely place with fab views and walks. There's an excellent restaurant l'Hélianthe, installed inside a cave and which we've been to a few times. Turquant is also home to a large group of artisans, all of whom have their workshops/shop in a cave. As you can imagine the village attracts visitors and in the summer can be very busy. I've linked up to the Turquant website. It's in French, but well laid out and easy to navigate. Gives a clear idea of the place and under Métiers d'art, lists all the artisans who are based there, which includes the wonderful Carole Noby.
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| Carole Noby designs |
How do you define a successful visit? Is it when you've gone somewhere, fallen in love with everything you've seen and managed to leave without buying something? Or as in my case - when I've fallen in love with everything I've seen and a wonderful husband has indulged me, so that I've left with at least a couple of things. Carole Noby is a Maroquinière - working with fine leather. Having trained at Hermes, it couldn't be anything else but fine. Her designs are the simplest, so heavily dependent on the quality of the material with which she works. The leather is gorgeous and the colours are stunning. Each bag is cut and stitched to perfection. We took some South African friends David and Jane, when they visited us last year. Depending on your point of view, it was successful for David because Carole Noby was shut and a total failure for Jane whose birthday was coming up! Managed a more successful visit with friends Dave and Sue, who now has a black leather version of the green bag in the photo. So elegant.
It's interesting who you end up in company with during a festival. You don't really expect to see the same face twice. Admittedly this is a small film festival at the Cinéma Rabelais in Chinon, so I suppose there's more of a chance that something like that is going to happen. But we have now seen Maroon Door Man six times. He has
clearly been reading the publicity he's been posting on his double doors and like us, has been supporting the
festival every day. We are on 'Bonsoir' terms now!
Fifteen films made up the festival this year, which was an all American affair. Older classics alongside the contemporary. We got to five in all. Sunday was a bit of a marathon - if you were up for it. 11am, 3pm, 5pm and 8.30pm showings - four different films. If you bought a pass for the whole day, brunch was included at the Café Francais, which we normally go to for jazz and other music gigs. We didn't. Two films were enough. Hate to think that we've lost the Edinburgh Fringe Spirit, where around twelve shows a day was our average. But every film we saw gave us so much to think and talk about - we just didn't want to cram ourselves senseless.
So what were our choices. We at last got round to seeing To Kill A Mockingbird . Fifty years old this year, we'd seen never it on the big screen. Commanding! It's one of my all time favourite films. The Night of the Hunter (1955) Robert Mitchum/Charles Laughton. Only seen this once and a long time ago. But it remains for me a curious piece, with nonetheless, some outstanding sequences and ideas. Summertime (2012) directed by Matthew Gordon. His first full-length film. Set in Mississipi, it's the story of 14 year old Robbie, who lives with his younger half-brother and his frail mute grandmother. Their mother sends postcards from time to time and the older brother drops in and out of their lives leaving Robbie to care for everyone. His life is on the edge and at a crossroads. Excellent work, with a flavour of 'Mark Twain' about it. A young director with real talent. William Patrick Ruffin as Robbie, was quite remarkable. The link is to a French site, but is translatable and there are Youtube clips available.
The surprise of the festival was the work of Jeff Nichols. He seems to me to have the spirit and touch of Mike Leigh and Ken Loach, in terms of subject, issues and text, the quality of the film work and the ability to get amazing and truthful performances from the actors.Take Shelter (2012) and Mud (2012). Set in the Midwest and Mississipi respectively, both films were pitch perfect. Wonderful work, particularly Mud,
which would be for me THE film of the festival. Can't do them justice in a blog. We'd be here all night. So the links are to interviews. Think/hope you'll find them interesting if you've a moment to take a look.
The final film was a romantic comedy, The Five Year Engagement / Cinq Ans de Reflexion, directed by Nicholas Stoller. If it hasn't been influenced by Mike Newell's 'Four Weddings' I'd be really surprised. Packed with excellent British actors, but also a fine American actor- Jason Segel - in the lead role, I haven't laughed and physically rolled around like that since 'Four Weddings'. I don't know if the translation worked well throughout the film for the French, but there were times when they were just rocking. Poignant, hilarious, sad, touching and peppered with the most outrageous black humour, it was a great choice and
an absolute gem with which to wind up a fabulous festival.
PS The grey links will take you to the right place, but you might have to click on the address bar to get to the right film. The Nicholas Stoller link is to the four star review in The Guardian from June 2012.
PPS I've no idea why some film titles are translated into French and others aren't.
The stage manager's nightmare! Weeks of work finally completed. Opening night and someone's missed a bit of paintwork - which luckily only the s.m. can see. Having worked in theatre for a long time it took me years after I'd come out of it, to be able to watch a show and enjoy it for what it was, rather than studying the lighting equipment, noticing every lighting cue that was late or every sound cue that wasn't smooth. Still do it occasionally.
We were driving yesterday from Chinon to Leclerc supermarket, which is just outside the town centre. They have a 24/7 petrol station which we always use. 'Only on one side' came up twice as we drove along and reminded me of a production of Alladin's Cave we went to, by a small amateur dramatic company in their local church hall. All had gone along entertainingly until we got to the bat sequence outside the cave. The bats were 'flown' in along two diagonal pieces of rope. Each one was fixed from an upstage corner to its diagonally opposite downstage corner, and were loaded on to the ropes so that they slid down in formation. At least that was the theory. One bat however got stuck. Someone off- stage started yanking on the rope to try and move the bat along. A bouncing bat as you'd expect caused a degree of giggling. Then an arm came out, grabbed all the bats reloaded them and off we went again. Except this time, they 'flew' down the rope so fast they crashed into each other and flipped over. Unfortunately, only one side of each bat had been painted and we were now presented with a brown lashed-up hardboard bat with nails. The effect on the audience was somewhat predictable as 'the arm' appeared yet again. It should have got a programme credit.
At the moment there are autumn festivals on all over the place - film, food, autumn fayres, concerts. So there's a lot of publicity about and in particular promotional banners. If the information is only going to be on one side, then a banner railing is great. Yesterday, rigged over the key road in and out of Chinon were two banners for two separate events, carrying essential information, but only on one side. The other side was completely blank. From Chinon to Leclerc we could read everything clearly, but not if you were coming from Leclerc to Chinon. It was quite odd, because the position and rigging of banners at these points is a regular occurrence throughout the year, and viewed as essential promotion. Why someone didn't advise the organisers properly I just don't know. But anyhow, these things happen. Can feel a return visit to the maroon door coming on.
